Cleveland Way

OVERVIEW

The Cleveland Way was the second National Trail to open, and combines both a long section across the North Yorkshire Moors, with a section up the Yorkshire Coast.

As trails go, it is moderately challenging - and whilst less easy to walk than some of the easier National Trails, remains easier than the most challenging trails.

It also features a lot of pretty countryside, with only very short sections spent heading through more urban centres - with this mostly done at Saltburn, Whitby and Scarborough.

At the southern end the trail passes Sutton Bank - with very impressive views out over the Vale of York - and then then heads north to join up with the Coast to Coast between Osmotherley and Swainby.

I personally prefer the Cleveland Way route to Robin Hood's Bay over the Coast to Coast route. In part this is because I prefer the route across the moors via Captain Cook Monument and Roseberry Topping - but is also because the coastal section takes in pretty fishing villages such as Staithes and Runswick Bay. 

For those doing the Coast to Coast I would recommend continuing on to Scarborough along the Cleveland Way as the stretch of coast between Ravenscar and Robin Hood's Bay is in my opinion some of the best coast in England.

PRACTICALITIES

Helmsley can be reached by bus (the Moors Bus went to Helmsley at the time of writing), but can be hard to get to. The other access point in the south is via Thirsk - and this is how I have reached the Cleveland Way on the southern side.

On the northern end there is a bus at Osmotherley and Swainby - and this bus also goes to the villages that sit beneath the Cleveland Way, along the stretch round to Cringle Moor.

From here trains run to Battersby on the plain below (you can walk up from here via Ingleby Incline or via the roads), with trains stopping at Kildale and Saltburn on the Cleveland Way.

Buses do run along the coast, otherwise the train stops at Whitby, Scarborough and Filey - although note that the trains at Saltburn, Whitby and Scarborough do not connect up nicely, as they all sit on separate train lines.

Accommodation is far easier to find on the coastal section, although you can find it easier if you head off the trail each night. However, accommodation isn't that straight-forward - particularly if you are looking to walk short daily sections.

For accomodation the best options would seem to be  Helmsley, then the Carpenters Arms (off the trail in Felixkirk), then Osmotherley, then Great Broughton, then Kildale Barn or Great Ayton. For the coastal section you can stay in Saltburn, Staithes / Port Mulgrave, Whitby, Robin Hood's Bay, Boggle Hole, Ravenscar, Scarborough and Filey.

For those doing the walk in sections it is a very easy one to walk - for those doing it in one walk it can be harder (primarily due to limited accommodation options, although not so bad if you don't mind a few longer stints through some sections of the path).

STAGES

Helmsley to Sutton Bank (★★★★☆)

To follow later...

Sutton Bank to Swainby (★★★★★)

I walked this section from Thirsk, joining up with the Cleveland Way at Sutton Bank. From here the path heads out along the Hambledon Hills, with amazing views out across the Vale of York. 

After Sneck Yate the path heads into a wooded section, before returning to open moorland at Little Moor - with this open section continuing until the path drops down into Osmotherley.

The path heads through the village of Osmotherley - and then passes Mouth Grace Priory (down a hill) and Lady's Chapel (a short walk off the path), before heading through Arncliffe Wood to Scarth Wood Moor. Here you get great views out over the trail ahead, before the path heads back into woods at Scarth Nick - after which the path passes by Swainby.

This section includes 14.4 miles of walking on the Cleveland Way (or 23.5 miles for the full walk from Thirsk as in the writeup), with one and a half thousand feet of ascent (or two and half thousand from Thirsk).

Swainby to Kildale (★★★★★)

The Cleveland Way sits above Swainby and from here the path heads along the base of Limekiln Bank and then cuts across a field (usually with cows - friendly ones) to Huthwaite Green.

There is then a climb up to Live Moor and then on round to Carlton Bank, before dropping to Lord Stones, where a number of Bronze Age burial mounds can be found.

The path heads next up to Cringle Moor (past another Bronze Age burial mound) and then drops down, before heading up once again and back down, before again heading back up to the Wain Stones.

From here the path drops once again to cross over a road, before climbing back up to Urra Moor (passing a Bronze Age earth dyke) and along to the old railways at Bloworth Crossing. Here the path turns left and back on itself to head along Ingleby Moor, before dropping down into Kildale.

This section included 17.5 miles of walking (of which 16.6 miles were on the Cleveland Way). There was a total ascent of just under three thousand feet.

Kildale to Saltburn (★★★★☆)

From Kildale train station it is a very short walk to meet up with the Cleveland Way, which heads up a farm drive, with a steep climb up into woods that lead round to Captain Cook's Monument - where there are great views out across the countryside.

From here the path drops down to a road and up onto Great Ayton Moor, where it winds round to pass Roseberry Topping. The Cleveland Way extends out to Roseberry Topping (and back), which can be busy, but which also offers views out towards Teesside and the North Sea.

From here the path cuts back across Great Ayton Moor to Highcliff Nab (which looks out over Guisborough) - and then continues through Guisborough Woods, before dropping down to cross the A171 near Slapewath.

There is a steep climb up from here, after which the path heads to (and through) Skelton, before reaching Saltburn via Saltburn Valley Country Park.

This section includes 15.6 miles of walking (14.7 miles on the Cleveland Way), with under two and half thousand feet of ascent.

Saltburn to Whitby (★★★★☆)

From Saltburn the path heads up onto Hunt Cliff, where it squeezes between the cliffs and the railway, before heading round to a very pretty, and often deserted, beach at Skinningsgrove. 

From here it heads back up onto the cliffs on the far side, and on past Boulby to the pretty fishing village of Staithes. After passing through Staithes, the path climbs once again and heads past Port Mulgrave, before dropping into Runswick Bay.

At Runswick Bay there is a classical English seaside beach - and from here the path climbs back up the cliffs to reach Kettleness. From Kettleness the path continues along the cliffs, joining up with the old railway, before reaching Sandsend. From here you can walk along the beach most of the way into Whitby.

This walk totaled 20.3 miles (19.5 miles on the Cleveland Way) and totaled almost three thousand feet of ascent walking in reverse from Whitby to Saltburn.

Whitby to Scarborough (★★★★★)

This walk is ideally done walking from Scarborough to Whitby - as then the best section (between Ravenscar and Robin Hood's Bay) can be done with the views in front of you as you walk. If you do go the other way it is not a disaster, you will just want to stop and look back every now and then.

From Whitby the route heads up past the Abbey along the cliffs (this section is eroding so is best done along the road past the Abbey for now). Having cleared the holiday park you look out over Saltwick Bay (here it helps to be walking from Whitby as you no longer need to look at the holiday park).

Next you head past the lighthouse (don't get too excited about it, it's a bit ugly), and on past Maw Wyke Hole, where you get a great view of the cliffs as they cut in. From here there is a straighter section of cliff line until the route starts to wiggle a bit more as you pass White Stone Hole (again improving the views out across the cliffs).

From here you pass through Robin Hood's Bay, then past Boggle Hole and then take on the prettiest part of this section of coast, walking up to Ravenscar (passing the former site of Peak Alum Works along the way). 

From Ravenscar the path heads on past Heyburn Wyke and on along the cliffs to eventually make it round to the edge of Scarborough. Here you walk past North Bay beach, round the castle and then arrive into the harbour - and the core of Scarborough.

This section totaled 22.8 miles (22.2 miles on the Cleveland Way itself) and walking from Scarborough to Whitby had a total ascent of just over three thousand feet.

Scarborough to Filey (★★★☆☆)

The Cleveland Way heads out of Scarborough on a low route past Scarborough Spa (the origin point for Scarborough as Britain's first seaside town, back in 1660), but I extended the walk to explore the park above as well (this is a much shorter stage).

From here the path heads out up above Wheatcroft Cliff and Frank Cliff, before cutting up to Osgodby, with this section around Osgodby having less coast visible.

From here the path heads down towards Clayton Bay, where the views return, and the path heads past Clayton Bay to Lebberston Cliff. From here it goes past a holiday park on a crumbling section of cliff to reach Filey Brigg, which is a wonderful end point to the Cleveland Way. From here you can follow the Yorkshire Wolds Way to Filey train station.

This section totaled 11.4 miles (of which 7.8 miles were on the Cleveland Way - with 2.0 miles being additional walking around the parks at Scarborough). Total ascent was in excess of one thousand feet.

Up Next - Bempton Cliffs, Tabular Hills or Yorkshire Wolds?

If you are looking to extend the walk further, heading south will take you down to Bempton Cliffs where you might (at the right time of year) get to see some puffins - and you can continue on to Flamborough Head.

Both these sites are well worth the effort - and from there you can get the train back from either Bempton or Bridlington.

If by this point you are missing the Moors, you can just as easily head back up to Scarborough and follow the Tabular Hills Walk back to Helmsley (and then possibly do it all again?).

If instead you fancy something completely different, the Yorkshire Wolds Way continues on from here and offers up a very different landscape.