Weardale Way - Bishop Auckland to Durham (★★★☆☆)

Today I fancied exploring somewhere new, and tempted by the idea of exploring Durham more than anything else, decided today to do some walking along the Weardale Way from Bishop Auckland to Durham.

And so it is that I'm heading out on the train down to what is now the furthest end of the Tees Valley line (you used to be able to continue across to the Settle-Carlisle line from here in happier days) - where any further onward travel is only possible via the heritage Weardale Railway. 

From here our first task is to head around the houses, and down to the River Wear - in order to meet up with the Weardale Way itself. 

From here I had planned to be good and follow the official route of the trail, but being a sucker for a disused railway track, I instead take the parallel (and on appearances much more solid) route, along the old railway.

It may be May, but it is a wet summers day

The old railway route

Here I think the decision to walk the railway path is the correct one, as it adds a bit of contrast to the day - and with it being very wet, it gets me onto nice dry ground for this wettest part of the day. 

If you continue along this railway path, it will actually take you all the way round to Durham - but I only plan to spend a small section on this railway route today (the first section where it is running parallel to the Weardale Way). 

And having followed the railway path round to Willington, I drop down onto the Weardale Way itself, and here set off across the fields, following the River Wear.

Heading through the fields after Willington

Along this section the path is heading through open farmland, and after a bend in the river, the path heads past Lowfield Farm - and then heads out from this farm along a farm track.

Continuing along this track, the path bends up and passes through Page Bank, where we cross over the river, and get warned by walkers heading the other way that there is a flooded section ahead. 

This is not ideal - but since there is no real plan B in my mind, I continue on and hope that it is not quite as bad as it sounds.

And in any case, it is a nice section of path here - as the route follows the banks of the river, and after a long stretch along the river, heads past Holywell Hall, where I reach the flooded section.

The path here usually drops down over a relief channel that must normally be only a small trickle of water (as it would only take a couple of planks to bridge the gap). 

But today the channel is about a foot deep, and with no alternate route round, I just wade through and up the other side - thankful that it is at least not too cold today.

Now with nice wet feet, we continue on across the fields, until Croxdale Viaduct comes into view.

Built in 1872, this is an old viaduct that is used to maintain a constant level on the railway as it comes off the higher plains - and as it heads round to the higher ground in Durham centre. 

Although built in the Victorian era, it remains in used to key as part of the East-Coast mainline, and today we have to avoid one of the arches as repair works are on-going (although it is hardly an issue given how many arches there are to go under).

Croxdale Viaduct

And indeed if you travel on the East-Coast Mainline between Durham and Darlington, this is a great spot to walk - for you can see this section of path very clearly out the train window as you head south from Durham towards Darlington (or north into Durham).

Having passed under the viaduct, we are now actually fairly close to Durham as the crow flies, but on our winding path we still have some way to go yet - and head over the river, and up a very pretty drive towards Croxdale Hall.

The drive for Croxdale Hall 

Croxdale Hall is quite a grand estate, and while it seems to be privately owned, there is a lot of walking routes that head through the grounds - and it looks like there is lots of great walking that can be done around the grounds (if so, well done Mr/Mrs Estate owner). 

I did look up the history of the hall, but found nothing of major interest other than it has always been a fairly fancy hall - but in any case, hhaving gone up the drive, the path heads through into the core of the estate - where you can find the chapel and some farm buildings near to Croxdale Hall itself.

The chapel

From here the route continues along very minor roads through the estate, which head round to Croxdale Wood. Here we pass along the edge of this wood at first, before it is time to drop down to the river below.

Here the conditions are not ideal for walking this stretch of path today, for it is clay ground, and quite a steep slope - and after heavy rainfall ahead of today, it proves to be a very slow and slippery route down the slope (that only just avoided a very fast slide down from top to bottom).

But once safely down at river level, there is a further stretch running through the woods, before popping out onto a very minor road.

Still feels very wet as I continue on next to the river

This route takes us through the village of Shincliffe - and having crossed over the road, we are now in the core of Durham, following the river round to the centre - heading past the university playing fields.

Following the river into Durham

It is not too much further to go, and upon my arrival I decide to head through the middle of Durham, rather than following the river round, to go look at some of the old buildings.

The Cathedral up close

St Mary the Less church

And after spending a bit of time wandering the streets, I head off to the train station, and head home.

Total Distance: 14.7 miles (13.3 miles on the Weardale Way)

Total Ascent: 838 feet (614 feet on the Weardale Way)

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐ ★ ★ / 5

Click for a writeup of the next section of the Weardale Way between Sunderland and Durham.

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is mostly covered by the 93 OS Landranger map, but does creep into maps 88 and 92 (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.