Northumberland Coast Path - Bamburgh to Alnmouth (★★★★★)

This walk was day 2 of a longer two day walk from Berwick-Upon-Tweed to Alnmouth. For the previous day please click the following link : Day 1 - Berwick-Upon-Tweed to Alnmouth

Having stayed overnight in Bamburgh, I was up early, dropped by key behind the desk and - after spending about five minutes trying to work out how to get out of the hotel, without setting off any alarms - heading out on my walk.

Heading out the door, I turn right and head towards the castle - which I have a bit of a poke around the edges of - before heading on my way along the dunes, heating eastwards.

Bamburgh Castle

It is smaller when you are stood further away

Initially I alternate between walking on the official route through the dunes - which can get a bit frustrating with all the vegetation on either side - and walking along the road, before I realise what a fool I have been, and swap to walking along the beach. 

If you are doing this same walk then don't make my mistake, and - whilst making sure you get some nice views of the castle as you head by - drop as soon as you can onto the beach, because that is where the most enjoyable route is.

Having realised the best route, my task for now is straight forward - and that is to walk along the beach under the early sunshine, and continue on until I reach Seahouses.

Walking along the beach

Given that I passed the castle at 7am, the beach is surprisingly busy with walkers, dog walkers and joggers all out and about, taking in the early air of the day. And while I'm never the biggest fan of having other people about, it is great to see everyone out and making the most of the day.

Just before reaching Seahouses, it is time to head up off the beach, and my plan is to use Seahouses as my resupply point for the day.

Coming into Seahouses

Seahouses is the bigger town and so is probably cheaper to stay in with more choices as to where you can stay and eat, but for me Bamburgh is still probably the place to stay, as it just is a bit more special and gives a great start to the day. It may save you a bit of money to stay here though. 

Having navigated through the town - and it is a very lovely town by the way - the next bit we can gloss over a bit, because we have to go round the caravan park and golf course, and there's a bit of diverting about - but once past North Sunderland Point, you can pass down onto the beach after Seahouses, on the permitted route through the golf course.

Here you have some more beach walking, and aside from having to jump a few streams, you are back to enjoying yet another pleasant beach stroll.

This continues until you reach Beadnell. (UPDATE - I have since done a walk going to Alnmouth and then there is a bus to Beadnell from Alnmouth and this offers a great day walk - you could alternatively get off the bus at Craster for a shorter walk). 

Beadnell is a town you have to get through, rather than a town you particularly enjoy - but there will be plenty of other good seaside towns on the way, so don't worry, all will be okay.

On the way out of Beadnell, you have to get through the holiday park, but then you head through quiet dunes that are quite reminiscent of the previous day, and towards the beach from here is a bird sanctuary - with a few people out bird watching today.

The path continues on through a valley in the dunes, away from the coast line, and then cuts back across to follow the coast, before arriving at Low Newton-by-the-Sea - which is a pretty little seaside town.

Here the path cuts up to the top of the town - here there are toilets available if needed - and then the path cuts along the ridge - although you can soon drop down onto the beach at Embleton :

Steps to the beach

Since I have done both routes, this is a photo from the inland route not following the beach (which is also a pretty route and equally as enjoyable if you want something different) :

The inland route

Having reached the end of Embleton Bay, the path heads back up onto the cliffs, and here you pass by Dunstanburgh Castle.

Heading past the castle

The castle from the front side

From here there is a well walked route down to Craster, which is once again a very pretty little seaside town. Here the path heads through the outdoors area of the Jolly Fisherman Inn, and this is a very popular spot to stop and have a drink.

The path continues on south out of Craster along the little baby cliffs, past the village of Howick and this begins a run of fairly small, but almost entirely deserted beaches.

Howick Haven

It deserved a second photo

Sugar Sands

After these beaches pass in quick succession you round the corner, and head down into Boulmer - a quieter town that seems to still operate as a fishing town. 

Heading along some tracks pass some holiday homes, the path then comes out and you can drop down early on the beach, just past Seaton Point and follow the beach round into Alnmouth.

Beach to Alnmouth (you can drop down shortly after this point)

One time I cut the corner heading into Alnmouth and ended up climbing endless extra hills, and so the best route seems to be to continue along and follow the official path.

From here - if like me you are taking the train - you just need to keep following the path until you are over the bridge and then, when the path heads off left (heading off to Warkworth and Amble - another wonderful walk, by the way), you keep going and head up the hill.

Note that trains at Alnmouth are not always particularly frequent and so if you arrive at the wrong time it can be a long wait till the next train.

This is exactly what I did and so I spent an hour or so on the platform because I didn't want to walk down to Alnmouth to find somewhere to kill the time, and then back up again. The smarter thing to do is to check the time in Alnmouth and then you can wait in town, rather than on a station platform - and maybe even get something to eat.

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5

UPDATE - Click to see the writeup for the rmaining section from Alnmouth round to Ashington (which includes the remaining section of the Nothumberland Coast Path, from Alnmouth to Cresswell).

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 75 and 81 OS Landranger maps - while there is also a Northumberland Coast Path guidebook (covers Newcastle to Berwick-Upon-Tweed) which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.