Hadrians Wall - Bowness on Solway to Haltwhistle (★★★★★)

One of the National Trails I have been keen to complete in its entirety has been Hadrian's Wall - partly because it is a nice area for walking, partly because it has a lot of history - and partly because it is fairly short, and therefore pretty easy to tick off.

On day walks, I have so far walked all the sections between Carlisle and Newcastle - and whilst I will be walking from Bowness-on-Solway to Haltwhistle on this trip (over two days), it is the section from Bowness-on-Solway to Carlisle that I am most keen to tick off (as that will just leave the second from Newcastle to Wallsend left undone).

This is always a nice part of the world to go walking in - and on that basis I'm just happy to be here, and keen to set out on a walk over pretty countryside.

Normally I'll split the walks day by day in separate writeups, but with the first day being fairly short and less eventful, I figured it made sense to do both days in one.

Bowness-on-Solway to Carlisle (Day 1)

It is early March and so daylight is a slight limiting factor today, but I have worked out that I am okay so long as I catch the 9am bus from Carlisle to Bowness-on-Solway. 

This bus runs fairly infrequently - and so the next bus doesn't run until 12:30pm - and I would recommend only taking this later bus once the evening sunset has extended byeond 7pm (leaving Bowness at 1:15pm, you should get into Carlisle before 7pm at a pace of 2.75mph).

In order to catch this bus I have had to make an early start this morning, but staying over in Carlisle is an option as it is fairly cheap.

Getting off the bus in the centre of Bowness, it is a short walk to a little shelter that marks the start of Hadrian's Wall Path - and from here the path heads off along the roads.

This is a quiet, out of the way, sort of place - and so walking along the roads is no issue, as we head out across remote countryside, on the edge of Solway Firth.

Upon reaching Port Carlisle, we turn off the road onto a parallel path that runs along the edge of the river - as we walk along countryside that is very reminiscent of the area around Lindisfarne, on the east coast of England.

In time this path rejoins the road, where we cross over and head along some farm tracks to Glasson. 

From here, there's a certain amount of farm track walking to be done, until we come round to Drumburgh, which is a pretty village - which includes a well fortified manor.

No Scots invading from the north today 😳

This village sits on a slight hill, with the name Drumburgh deriving from 'ridge near the fort' in Old English - with this derivation referring to the nearby Roman fort of Coggabata.

But this fort wasn't just an outlier stronghold at the end of the Roman reach - instead it was part of a chain of defenses that in many cases pre-date Hadrian's Wall.

These Roman frontier defenses can be split up into Wall defenses, outputs, Stanegate and Cumbrian coast defenses.

Forts on Stanegate and Hadrian's wall (Source: Wikipedia Rjdeadly)

Stanegate Roman Road is believe to have been built between 77 and 85 AD - connecting up a series of forts with larger towns at Carlisle and Corbridge (and maybe Newcastle).

These generally sit along the Tyne and Irthing valleys - and these days the bulk of the more populated areas along Hadrian's Wall sit on or near to Stanegate Roman Road (the path of the wall itself mostly contains outlier farms).

South-west of here we have a more peripheral fort at Kilbride - and these forts where initially built as turf and timber forts - before being upgraded to stone at a later date.

Construction of Hadrian's Wall followed in 122 AD, with mile forts also being built along the Cumbrian coast. 

And a particularly good example of these coastal defenses can be seen with the Glennaventa Roman Fort at Ravenglass. This fort at Glennaventa began construction in 122 AD, again of a turf and timber construction - but was replaced in 130 AD by a larger stone fort.

The fort at Drumburgh was itself fairly small and is believed to have been updated to stone in 160 AD, but was a site used to defend against any Scots raiding across the mud and sand to the north.

These days the main site on show is Drumburgh Castle - although in reality this is merely the previously mentioned 14th century fortified farmhouse, rather than some great Norman fortification.

Here we follow the dead straight route of the wall down to Burgh by Sands - and is notable both for Aballava Roman fort, and for being the site where Edward I died.

Edward I was one of the great kings of England, who played a key role in the unification of Britain into one kingdom (albeit via an often brutal and barbaric approach to conquest). 

Early on in his reign he fought many battles against the Welsh (ending in the conquest of Wales) - and ended his life camped in Burgh by Sands, fighting a war against Robert the Bruce (who sought to restore independence for Scotland).

For all the time he spent fighting, Edward would in the end die of dysentery. In the end his son, Edward II, would go on to be defeated by the Scots anyway - and would have a fairly disastrous reign, until he was deposed, and ultimately died in captivity. 

Aballava Roman Fort was positioned to guard the southern end of two of the most navigable Solway fords, at Peat Wath and Sandwath. These fords were also used later by medieval border raiders - hence the need for fortified farmhouses in that particular era of history.

The fort at Aballava was a later upgrade (probably about 160 AD), and replaced a smaller turret, but does not remain today - with much of the stone being borrowed to build later buildings.

Here we head through town and having past through, we turn off the road to head across the fields towards Beaumont.

At my time of passing there was a diversion in place from Beaumont - which then rejoined the official route of the trail past Beaumont.

And here it starts to get a bit less desolate, and the countryside turns from marsh into farmland - in an early indication that we are starting to close in on Carlisle. 

Having next cleared Kirkandrews-on-Eden, we continue on through sheep fields to reach the village of Grinsdale - from which the route follows the path of the River Eden.

From here it is a quiet route alongside the river, and whilst its not the most amazing river walk (I have walked the other side of the river which I enjoyed more), we eventually make our way round to the parks and greens near the centre of Carlisle - with views of the castle on the higher ground above.

Here I headed off to sort some food - and set off to my hotel to get an early night ahead of a bigger effort the next day.

Total Distance: 14.2 miles
Total Ascent: 502 feet

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐ ★ ★ / 5

Carlisle to Haltwhistle (Day 2)

Today I'm taking on a fairly long stretch of Hadrian's Wall from Carlisle on to Haltwhistle - and so it is an early start to make the most of the available light. 

The first task of the day is to join up with the path heading out of Carlisle along the river and soon we find ourselves venturing into Rickerby Park - which is a really pleasant park to walk through.

From here we start heading out following a road - which will take us through Rickerby, and onwards to pass over the M6.

Having got over the M6, the path continues to follow the road into Linstock, where we use the quiet side streets, before continuing on along the farm tracks, past the former site of Linstock Castle (there was nothing I could see that remained of the castle, which was built as a palace for the Bishops of Carlisle in the 12th century). 

From here the path starts to head out over the fields, and for now follows the River Eden to Low Crosby. 

At this point the path has diverged somewhat from the route of Hadrian's Wall, but after a tiny bit more road walking, it is time to head north, and once again rejoin the path of the wall - heading up and then along the path of the wall on farm tracks.

It is here that for me the real walk begins - and here you start to get the feel of what the scenery of the walk will be like.

Next we pass a small local airport (you might spot a plane or two taking off), and continue through sheep fields, before starting to head slightly further north, towards Newtown.

On the trail not far from Newtown (June 2024)

Just before reaching Newtown (June 2024)

I have decided to use a mix of pictures from both this walk in March 2025, and from a previous visit in June 2024, to provide the best possible feel for the trail. When I use the pictures from the prior walk I will indicate that those were in June 2024 - but the change of seasons will probably be a bit of a hint.

Having past through Newtown, the next section sees a series of short stints between farms and houses, before returning to slightly less interrupted countryside on the run to Walton - further along the trail.

Walton is a very residential village, but there are some little stalls out offering some basic refreshments for sale as you pass through, and after you head through there is a bit more road walking - but it is a very quiet stretch of road as you drop down the hill to Dovecote Bridge. 

It is easy to miss, but there is also an information board just before the bridge - but it doesn't really tell you much except that here they have buried the only section of the wall which used Cumbrian red sandstone, which was previously visible here (to preserve the stone). 

Heading on, the route heads off into the fields - but on this visit I kept things easier and stuck to the road to join up again with the path past Dovecote as that section wasn't as easy to follow last time I came through.

In any case, you are soon back off the roads, and on quieter footpaths - following close to the route of Hadrian's Wall as it passed over this landscape. 

Following the wall through some pretty countryside (June 2024)

This pretty countryside generally continues for the following stretch - and since you are now genuinely following the path of the wall, the route is dead straight through to Banks where it is time to return to a bit of road walking - although again following minor roads.

Although road sections are normally a bit of a negative on a walk - up ahead at the back end of Banks you head up a hill and then there are a group of homes clustered around a green which offers a nice spot to stop, and have a break on a waiting bench.

From here there is a tiny bit more road walking to do, but very soon you are directed onto footpaths running alongside the road and - more significantly - there are genuine bits of wall along this stretch.

Some genuine wall

Here begins the purest section of the walk along the wall - with this central section of the walk featuring a lot more evidence of the wall itself (if you have only done a few short walks on the trail without seeing much wall don't despair, there is plenty to be seen).

And here there are plenty of examples of old roman walls or forts to take a bit of a look around, whilst also having a nice ridge to walk along with views to the south. 

On other walks I would take the time to dig up the history of these individual forts, but here they are so numerous that I will only stick to detailing the major sites along the wall.

And here you will also find one of the other curiosities of the wall... American tourists. These tourists will often stop you for a chat, and no matter how far you are walking, I promise that what you are doing will blow their minds. If you are walking the entire wall, be ready with bandages.

These Americans can be quite direct, but if they are impressed by what you are doing they will continue to be direct with their praise, which can be a bit of an ego boost. For a Brit this is odd, partly because we aren't usually so direct, but also because if I were to find someone walking further than me, I would probably smile politely, whilst secretly hating them for the rest of my life. 

Looking out to the south in summer (June 2024)

Navigating this stretch isn't particularly hard, but eventually the footpath markers will tell you that you've had enough fun walking on the grass ridge, and put you back on the road. 

Before long, however, you are once again given permission to turn down and head through some woods (passing a stall that you can buy food/drink from in summer) - that takes you back to the grassland below.

After this drop down, you head back up closer to the road - but then as the path drops away from the road you hit the most special section of this path (so far), which runs from here to Gilsland ahead.

In this section I tend to slow the pace down, and just try and enjoy walking through this very special landscape.

A really chilled section to walk through (June 2024)

But the thing that makes this section so special isn't really the countryside, although the countryside would make this a special walk in it's own right - instead it is because we are about to pass by Birdoswald fort.

If you are walking the entire trail - in one go or over a season - it may be worth getting an English Heritage pass, and allowing additional time to do a bit of exploring at the major sites along the wall.

The most important of these are probably Birdoswald Fort (here), Housesteads Fort, Chester's Fort and Corbridge (off the wall). Segedunum Fort is not English Heritage so must be paid for separately - and at the time of writing English Heritage cost £42 a year per person.

Whilst it is good to support the preservation of these sites, I'm not sure there is all that much to see in the actual sites themselves, however - as mostly you just end up walking around a set of ruins on the ground.

Part of me wishes we would rebuild these sites and restore them to their former glory, rather than leaving them as crumbled rocks on the ground, but there is plenty to see at Birdoswald from the trail as you walk past - which was clearly a substantial fort.

An artists impression of the original fort - the path goes from the gate on the right, round to the front, and then back inside the wall (just past the main gatehouse), before following the front wall to the left of the image

But we have not reached the best bit yet, for once the path heads past the fort, we do have a section where there are substantial sections of wall on show. And here you do get more of an idea of how this would have looked and felt in Roman times.

After heading pass some more (free) ruins - you head down a long and steep hill, in order to cross a bridge over the River Irthing.

The original bridge over the river - our bridge is more modern, and is slightly inside the original wall route

Having crossed over the river, the fun does not simple come to an end, as now we head through some more of the ruins on the opposite side of the river (and here this wonderful section of the wall continues).

You are on the Scottish side of the wall along this bit (June 2024)

Back on the safer side of the wall heading towards Gilsland - Phew! (June 2024)

I don't think I can over emphasis how enjoyable this stretch is, with all the Roman vibes going on - and I will forever be envious of the kids I have seen being walked home along this stretch (what a walk to school).

Having reached Gilsland, you find yourself in a larger town - and at the right time of year you should be able to find somewhere to stay either here or close to Thirlwall Castle (ahead).

But for both of my last visits the original path has been blocked, and there is a diversion down the hill, and back up the road on the other side of town - where you rejoin the original route.

On the way out of Gilsland we then pass by some pretty houses, with a particular highlight being one with a stream running through, and chickens running all over the place.

But with these houses behind us, we now are able to look ahead towards the next section of the trail as it heads up past Thirwall Castle, and on to Crag Lough.

Here I have a bit of a rest, enjoying the view out ahead, before heading on down to eventually join up with the Pennine Way (coming in from the south), as we cross over a busy road.

And if you are interested in walking the Pennine Way route along Hadrian's Wall (joining the Pennine Way near Kellah) click here (starting at Haltwhistle and ending at Bardon Mill).

Safely across the road, a quick follow up task is to get across the railway line, although this task is made easier by the traffic lights that tell you when it is or isn't safe to cross (still have a look before you cross though).

Now the path heads up northwards towards Thirlwall Castle. Normally I'd be pretty excited to see a castle, but let's be honest - by this point a castle feels frightfully modern, and hardly noteworthy at all.

Instead the route heads directly east again - once again following the exact route of the wall - and it is a good climb up the hill, but as you stop to rest, you will get a good chance to look back over the route you have just past.

Looking back from the ridge (a later visit in September 2025)

From here I am adding some photos from a later visit in September 2025 (the previously mentioned walk along the Pennine Way), as the countryside was looking particularly attractive on that walk.

By the time you reach the top, you get diverted down along the road to sneak into the car park and visitor centre at Walltown. And once again, this is a really special section to walk through.

Initially, you have a really pleasant walk past the lake and through the trees underneath the cliffs above, which have clearly been cut away and mined for rock (I wonder what they needed all the rock for?).

This lake is worth remembering, because next time you watch a film based in medieval or ancient England you will watch someone ride past this exact spot in the film, and then magically transport to another site in southern England a few miles later. 

When this happens it is very important that you point this inconsistency out to everyone watching, and they will appreciate this piece of additional commentary.

The lake at Walltown (September 2025)

From the lake, the path heads northwards, and here there is some climbing to do - and this section is a bit of a heavy going end to the day, with a lot of hills to come.

Having made it to the top of the first hill

The joggers ran past me quite easily but at least they struggled up the other side 😏

On another peak

It's just pictures for now

I've nearly got my breath back...

Throughout this section the path repeatedly bumps from hill to hill, with fairly substantial pieces of wall either remaining - or having been rebuilt - and combined with the great views it is a great (if a bit heavy going) end to the day.

But with Haltwhistle being my destination, at this point I'm thinking through an exit strategy to get down from the wall - and my plan is to head down at Great Chesters where there is a permissive route down the farm drive.

This then joins into a minor road, which in turn heads down to the main road, which is quickly crossed, before heading further south along a farm track past Lees Hall - and then there is the choice of following the road, or diverting into the path in the trees.

As it is I stay on the road until I reach the bridge, and then the footpath runs down along Haltwhistle Burn and into Haltwhistle itself - where there is the opportunity to pop to the shop to get some food and drink, before heading round to the station to catch the train home. 

Total Distance: 25.8 miles (23.5 miles on Hadrian's Wall Path)

Total Ascent: 2,260 feet (2,129 feet on Hadrian's Wall Path)

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5

Further Routes :

An additional walk that joins up with this one that runs to the south is the Cumbrian Way - and a writeup for the section from Carlisle to Keswick can be found here. This one can be done via two shorter days walking with a stay in Caldbeck, and while the walking to the west of Carlisle was a bit barren, the walking to the south is really nice - followed up with some amazing scenery heading into the lakes.

Click for the next part of the Hadrian's Wall path, running from Hatlwhistle to Hexham

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 85 and 86 OS Landranger maps - while there is also a Hadrian's Wall guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.