Offa's Dyke - Monmouth to Chepstow (★★★☆☆)

This walk was the second of two days walking the southern end of Offa's Dyke (to Chepstow as I couldn't be bothered with the final mile to Sedbury Cliffs). On the previous day I had walked from Abergavenny to just past Pandy and then followed the Offa's Dyke to Monmouth.

Today's walk would largely follow the route of the River Wye, and began by heading through Monmouth.

Heading over Monnow Bridge

On the way I pass over Monnow Bridge - the only remaining fortified bridge in Britain - and then, after heading through town and stopping at the shops, the next task is to head up the hills on the far side - climbing up to the Naval Temple at Kymin.

Monmouth from above

Naval Temple

I wasn't really sure what to expect from a Naval Temple, but it definitely wasn't this. The Naval Temple was built in 1800 to commemorate the second anniversary of a naval victory at the Battle of the Nile in 1798. This was a battle between the French and English navies in which 218 English sailors died, but where 2000-5000 French lives were lost in a resounding victory for the British.

It was a famous victory - hence the need for a temple to commemorate - and ensured that the British rather than the French remained the dominant force in the region throughout the Napoleonic Wars.

More significantly for me though, this spot also marks the start of a stretch of well maintained path that runs on to the next village of Redbrook. 

Redbrook was an important industrial town, with works for iron, tin and copper - with ores arriving from as far as Cornwall (coming via Chepstow). Now it is a pleasant town that sits in a slight flattening of the valley, wedged in between a number of surrounding hills.

And with those hills in mind on my walk, Redbrook is more notable for me as the start of another hill, and it is a long climb up from Redbrook - after which I stop for a spot of early lunch looking out over the countryside.

Looking down at Redbrook

From here the path heads on through Highbury Wood for a stretch before continuing on via the fields.

Highbury Woods

Fields beyond

After a stretch through the fields alongside Cadora Wood, the path drops down into Bigsweir Wood on a very quiet stretch along the trail.

Bigsweir Wood

Having passed through Bigsweir Wood, the next task is to head past Bigsweir Bridge (a cast-iron bridge built in 1827) on the way towards Bigsweir House, and on the way to the bridge there is a short section along a faster and busier road. Amazingly though I did not find a big weir - which was a bit of a disappointment.

I did not realise it at the time, but here there is also a choice in the route here, as you can head alongside the River Wye here or on the route up over higher ground - with both joining back up at Brockweir - and with both being official options as part of walking Offa's Dyke.

Bigsweir Bridge

The route I am going is the main route - and the higher ground route - and the next section includes another fairly long climb up to a minor road near the top of the ridge, heading up through woods, with a final steep stepped section up to the top.

Up the steps

From here the path meanders between the farms and villages on a mix of paths, fields and road, with endless changes of direction in the path till a final road crossing near to Brockweir (where the alternate route joins back up).

From Brockweir it is time for another long climb up into the hills, and it is at the top of the next climb that I stop for a second lunch of the day, looking out across the countryside.

View out from my (second) lunch spot

Steps to the top

From here the path winds on, past the busy campsite at Beeches Farm, and then cuts into Caswell Wood on the way to Devil's Pulpit.

Caswell Wood

Devil's Pulpit

Devil's Pulpit looks out over Tintern Abbey, and the legend is that the devil created the pulpit to preach his evil ways to the monks below in the hope of converting them over to his side.

To be honest, it feels like monks might not be the best audience to preach that particular message to, but it's a dramatic rock formation with a clear view of the countryside below.

From here the path continues on through the woods, on past Shorn Cliff, Plumweir Cliff and on through Worgan's Wood - before moving through the villages on the outskirts of Chepstow.

After passing the village of Broadrock, the path follows the edge of Wintour's Leap and skirts a quarry that is full of rock climbers out for the day.

If you can spot them through the growth there are some rock climbers

From here the path heads on past Woodcroft on the way to Tutshill, at which point you head into what seem to be the grounds of a manor house (I looked for details but couldn't find much so I'm not sure about the history of it).

A rather eccentric house

From here the path heads direct towards Chepstow, but before reaching Chepstow itself, the Offa's Dyke Path turns off to the left to head towards Sedbury Cliffs at the Severn Estuary.

Here I look up this final mile and it seems that everyone who has done it wasn't too impressed with this extra mile, and so I make an executive decision and I decide that I can't be bothered with it. Instead I continue on direct into Chepstow, heading over the River Wye on the way - which is now just a big muddy ooze.

Heading into Chepstow with a view of the castle

From here there is time for a bit of a potter around the busy town, before heading off on the train to Gloucester, which I'll use as an overnight before heading off home the following day.

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐ ★ ★ / 5

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 162 OS Landranger map - while there is also a Offa's Dyke guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.