Offa's Dyke - Monmouth to Chepstow (★★★☆☆)

This walk was the second of two days walking the southern end of Offa's Dyke Path. On the previous day I had walked from Abergavenny to Monmouth (via Pandy).

Today's walk would follow the route of the River Wye - but although this sounds like something that would result in a fairly flat walk - don't let any talk of river valleys fool you into thinking this section is an easy section of walking.

Heading over Monnow Bridge

On the way through and out of Monmouth, I pass over Monnow Bridge - the only remaining fortified bridge in Britain - and then, after heading through town (and stopping at the shops), the next task is to head up the hills on the far side - climbing up to the Naval Temple at Kymin.

Monmouth from above (I said there would be hills)

Naval Temple

I wasn't really sure what to expect from a Naval Temple, but it definitely wasn't this. 

The Naval Temple was built in 1800 to commemorate the second anniversary of a naval victory at the Battle of the Nile in 1798. This was a battle between the French and English navies in which 218 English sailors died, but where 2000-5000 French lives were lost in a resounding victory for the British.

It was a famous victory (hence the need for a temple to commemorate), and ensured that the British rather than the French remained the dominant force in that part of the world throughout the Napoleonic Wars.

More significantly for us though, this spot also marks the start of a stretch of well maintained path that runs on to the village of Redbrook. 

And after making our way along this very nicely done section of path we reach a village that was an important industrial town - with works for iron, tin and copper, with ores arriving here from as far afield as Cornwall (coming via Chepstow). 

But what we find now is a pleasant town, that sits in a slight flattening of the valley - wedged in between a number of surrounding hills.

And Redbrook marks the start of a climb up another hill - and with it being a long climb up, at the top I stop for a spot of early lunch, looking out over the countryside.

Looking down at Redbrook

From here the path heads on through Highbury Wood for a stretch, before continuing on across the fields.

Highbury Woods

Across the fields

After we complete this a stretch through the fields (alongside Cadora Wood), the path drops down into Bigsweir Wood on a very quiet stretch along the trail.

Bigsweir Wood

Having passed through Bigsweir Wood, the next task is to head past Bigsweir Bridge (a cast-iron bridge built in 1827) on the way towards Bigsweir House - and here we hit our first section of not-so-fun road walking.

At the bridge we turn up towards the House, and we are now moving into the tidal section of the River Wye.

I did not realise it at the time, but here there is also a choice in the route here, as you can head alongside the River Wye here or on the route up over higher ground - with both joining back up at Brockweir - and with both being official options as part of walking Offa's Dyke. The route I took was the one over higher ground - other walkers took the other route.

Bigsweir Bridge

Next up we have another long climb, up to a minor road near the top of the ridge - heading up through woods, with a final steep stepped section to the top.

Up the steps

From here the path meanders between farms and villages on a mix of paths, fields and road, with endless changes of direction in the path, till a final road crossing near to Brockweir (where the alternate route joins back up).

From Brockweir, it is time for another long climb up into the hills - and it is at the top of this climb that I stop for the rest of my lunch, looking out across the countryside.

View out from my (second) lunch spot

Steps to the top

From here the path winds on, past the busy campsite at Beeches Farm, and then cuts into Caswell Wood on the way to Devil's Pulpit.

Caswell Wood

Devil's Pulpit

Devil's Pulpit looks out over Tintern Abbey, and the legend is that the devil created the pulpit to preach his evil ways to the monks below in the hope of converting them over to his side.

To be honest, it feels like monks might not be the best audience to preach that particular message to, but it's a dramatic rock formation, with a clear view of the countryside below.

From here the path continues on through the woods - on past Shorn Cliff, Plumweir Cliff and through Worgan's Wood - before moving through the villages on the outskirts of Chepstow.

After passing the village of Broadrock, the path follows the edge of Wintour's Leap and skirts a quarry that is full of rock climbers out for the day.

Can you spot the rock climbers?

From here the path heads on past Woodcroft on the way to Tutshill, at which point we head into what seem to be the grounds of a manor house (I looked for details but couldn't find much, so I'm not sure about the history of it).

A rather eccentric house

Then from here the path heads direct towards Chepstow - but before reaching Chepstow itself, the Offa's Dyke Path turns off to the left to head towards Sedbury Cliffs, at the Severn Estuary.

And here I'll be honest, and admit that I just couldn't be bothered to do this final mile. Those who have done it before describe it as a fairly pointless mile (or two once you come back again) - and I will get over not having completed every inch of the overall trail.

If there were a way back from the end point other than turning back on yourself I might have been persuaded, but as it is I head directly into Chepstow from here, heading over the River Wye (which is now just a bit muddy ooze).

Heading into Chepstow with a view of the castle

From here there is time for a bit of a potter around the busy town, before heading off on the train to Gloucester, which I'll use as an overnight before heading off home the following day.

Total Distance: 17.5 miles (16.6 miles on the Offa's Dyke Path)

Total Ascent: 3,435 feet (3,333 feet on the Offa's Dyke Path)

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐⭐ ★ / 5

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 162 OS Landranger map - while there is also a Offa's Dyke guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.