Dales Way - Burneside to Ambleside (★★★★★)

The prior day I had been walking along the Dales Way from Cowgill to Burneside - and today I would be continuing to walk along the Dales Way to Bowness-on-Windermere. Since this would be a fairly short walk, my plan was then to cross over Windermere - and head up the western side of the lake to Ambleside.

I had stayed overnight in Kendal, so the first task of the day was to get on the train, and head back to Burneside - where I could begin the onward walk along the River Kent to Bowston. 

From here I continued on past Cowan Head, where the river was initially dotted with small clusters of houses.

But having made it past Cowan Head, the houses soon disappear and the next section is a quiet stretch through the fields - and it is along here that we officially enter the Lake District.

With this milestone ticked off, we head on to a road - which we follow to the edge of Staveley, before heading up, over the A591, and then up the ridge on the far side.

Looking back towards Staveley

From here we join up with a very minor road - and after a right turn, head back out into the fields as we start to head towards Windermere.

Heading across the fields

Looking out towards the hills above Windermere

Whilst we get a real Lake District feel through this section, we don't get sight of any lakes - and it will only be in the last few meters on the Dales Way, that Windermere will finally appear.

Instead the route is heading on through the pretty landscape on the way to Cleabarrow, which sits on the edge of Bowness-on-Windermere.

Hills are getting closer

On the way into Cleabarrow, there is a blockage on the path in the form of a large group of cows - and whilst they are friendly, they are a bit stubborn and hesitant to move - but eventually I manage to convince one of the cows to open up a gap for me.

Here the number of people out and about starts to climb, and opposite Home Farm I take an early rest ahead of meeting up with the crowds down in the town.

A good spot for a rest

Heading on, the path keeps Brant Fell to the south, and I clear the final few fields before reaching Bowness.

Final fields on the Dales Way

Bowness, and the end of the Dales Way (at the bench)

Dales Way walkers don't get priority in terms of sitting privileges at the monument - which is usually occupied by someone heading up from Bowness.

But on the left of this bench is a plaque marking 81 miles to Ilkley - and here the Dales Way officially ends.

Total Distance: 9.5 miles (9.0 miles on the Dales Way)

Total Ascent: 1,089 feet (1,066 feet on the Dales Way)

But today's walk is far from done - and here I drop down the hill into Bowness - and with it being out of season, in late September, I am expecting to be smugly able to walk around a quiet town. 

Here I am very wrong - and it is as busy as always down by the lake - and at times you have to shake a stick ahead of you just to keep moving.

But after making a quick stop to get some food and drink, I head out along the edge of the lake, and on down to Ferry Nab.

Just about found a gap in the people for a photo

On the bench at Ferry Nab

Here there is a little pause to proceedings whilst we wait for the ferry - but after paying £1.15 for my fare - I head aboard, and am soon heading across the lake.

The far side

It is almost impossible to walk along the side of Windermere on the eastern side - as a lot of the lake frontage is private property - but along this western side that issue disappears - as most of the residents of the western side of the lake are in fact trees.

So from here I head up along what is initially a road, taking in the view across Windermere.

Another lake picture

More of the same really

This initial stretch has great views, but eventually upon reaching Bass How the path starts to shift more into the forest, and what was a lakeside walk soon becomes a woodland forest walk.

Trees

Trees are very much the theme of the middle section of this walk up the far side of the lake, but just as the trees start to get a bit tiresome the path starts to return to the lakeside - and as I go to take a photo, it is time for the Fighter Jets to do another fly-by.

Above the black branch that looks like a bit of a bowl is a fighter jet

Zoomed in (I bet you didn't believe me)

The jets are obviously a bit small once you take a photo, but in real life they looked a lot bigger - and I have a video as well for those who want to hear the sound :

This was the fourth time I had encountered these jets on this day - but mostly they had been playing far overhead, without any realistic chance of them being in any way visible in a photograph (even with my very artful zooming techniques). 

But these jets are easier to identify in real life - and you're likely to see them while walking in the Lakes.

But with slower progress than those jets, I continue on up the lake, and find myself soon arriving at my turn off - where I will head away from the lake, and join up with the road.

My final lake photo

Joining up with the road

Initially I'm walking along the road itself, but very quickly I divert off onto a track that follows the road, that seems to be mostly used by cyclists.

Although there was a bit of road walking the view was okay

And this parallel path continues on throughout this section, proving just how well provisioned the Lakes are for walkers - and soon we get a bit of a break from the road as the path pulls off through Pull Woods, before rejoining up with a bigger road - that we continue to follow via our own dedicated path to one side.

Our path alongside the road

Along this next stretch there are a few short sections where we are forced back onto the road to get around a house or two, but mostly we continue along via this lovely side path, with views out across the fields.

Views out across the fields

It is only once we get very close to Clappersgate that there is a short section to walk along the road - but even this is far enough - because as always, the drivers can be quite aggressive in the Lake District, and not very accommodating of any road pedestrians. In fact I'm pretty sure they are actively trying to run everyone over who has the temerity to walk along their roads.

Still, with a bit of patience we get through okay, and use the pavement along the A593 - before pulling off to one side to head over a footbridge, that takes us into Ambleside. From here I head on to the bus stop at Hayes Garden Centre.

And here I get one final surprise of the day as I get on the sightseeing bus back to Windermere (where I will stay over) - enjoying the commentary that comes with every bus stop along the way. 

Total Distance: 17.9 miles (9.0 miles on the Dales Way)

Total Ascent: 1,637 feet (1,066 feet on the Dales Way)

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5

Click for a writeup of another walk that also joins up with Windermere walking from Pooley Bridge to Windermere.

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 90 and 97 OS Landranger maps - while there is also a Dales Way guidebook for the section along that trail which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.