Dales High Way - Skipton to Settle (★★★★★)

Today the plan is to walk from Skipton to Settle along the Dales High Way - which follows a very similar route to a walk I have already done, along the Pennine Way from Gargrave to Horton-in-Ribblesdale.

The two walks cross each other's path just above Malham Cove, but whilst the Pennine Way route takes a fairly flat path out of Gargrave to Malham, before heading up the steps from the base of Malham Cove and then taking on a very hilly route to Horton-in-Ribblesdale - this route bends much further east, before heading towards Malham Cove via Gordale Scar, and then tracking west to Settle.

Having really enjoyed that walk I'm excited to be back in the area, and step off the train at Skipton excited to get going. From here my plan isn't actually to follow the Dales High Way initially - instead I join up with the canal opposite the station, and then turn off the canal to head up Eller Beck, via Skipton Woods.

This route along the canal is the route of a previous walk - when I was walking the Liverpool & Leeds Canal from Gargrave to Keighley (before heading on to Leeds) - and on that walk I was wondering whether it was a nice walk up past Skipton Castle along Eller Beck. Since that route runs parallel to the Dales High Way heading north out of Skipton, it feels like killing two birds with one stone with this little detour.

And so it is that I head up past Skipton Castle, and into Skipton Woods, following the Beck on a very delightful walk through a very autumnal scene.

Skipton Castle Woods (off the official route)

This woodland stroll lasts for about half a mile or so before I reach the Short Lee Lane entrance/exit to the woods, which releases me onto Short Lee Lane, and into the path of the Dales High Way - which has passed out of Skipton along the fields running parallel to the woods I came through. 

Here my detour ends, and joining up with the Dales High Way, my next task is to cross over the A59, and head north across Skipton Golf Course.

Having made it across the golf course without being hit by any stay balls, I'm soon heading out on a track that is set to meet up with a minor road heading east-west.

On the track just past the golf course

Upon reaching this minor road, I turn left to head west, and continue along here until it is time to cross a bigger road that is heading north out of Skipton. 

From here I cross over and start heading across slightly boggy fields, before once again rejoining a minor road - which is soon left behind as I once again resume my westward journey across sheep fields.

From here we are now walking pretty much in a straight line towards Sharp Haw through rural countryside - with a very clear path ahead, winding up to a very visible raised peak.

There's about two hundred meters of climbing to tick off on the way up to that peak, but the going is never very steep, and instead it's a very gradual climb that is more memorable for the volume of water on the ground, than for any actual climbing. Eventually I find myself nearing the top, and here the climb steepens somewhat as we head up to the trig point.

Looking towards Rough Haw

Looking back from the gate

Looking back from the trig point

Having reached the top of Sharp Haw, the next task is to immediately give up some of that gained height, dropping down on a path that heads north to run past Rough Haw, on it's way to Flasby.

The onward path heads down to the left of Rough Haw (the big rock ahead)

Dropping down on the path

Initially the going is good on this path, but eventually it gets very wet as the path heads over a number of streams that are emptying into Eshton Beck to the south.

This makes for some slow progress as I strategically assess each stream in order to find a way across that won't get me too wet - but eventually the worst of the streams are left behind, and the walking becomes much drier and easier as I start to get closer towards Flasby.

On the edge of this village, the path meets up with a farm track, but the path only follows this for a bit before heading through the trees on a footpath that runs into the middle of Flasby - which turns out to a be pretty little hamlet with a cluster of farms and houses.

Here we join up with a road and cross over Flasby Beck, where we turn off the road to follow this Beck northwards, walking against the follow of the water.

Flasby Beck

This section offers some brief respite from any ascent or descent, and for the next mile and a half the going is very easy folloiwng this beck up to the village of Hetton to the north.

Looking out across the beck to the hills beyond

Upon reaching the village of Hetton, the route joins up with the road briefly as we head through the village, but before we get past the last of the houses, the onward path appears via a track that heads north-west out of the village - heading out towards Winterburn Reservoir.

But whilst we are turning off the road at Hetton, if you did fancy continuing on up the road for another five miles you would find yourself in the small town of Grassington. This town will probably not be a familiar name, but it might be better know as the village of Darrowby in the new - and very well made - TV series All Creatures Great and Small. Indeed the cyclists I pass on my way through Hetton are likely to be passing through Grassington on their cycle rides.

Looking back on the track out of Hetton

Here I get a perfect demonstration of the odd weather I'm facing today - as whilst looking behind I have the sunny scene seen in the photo above (and indeed I'm down to a t-shirt), ahead I have a big rain cell moving through, which at this point seems impossible to miss.

Rain and a rainbow ahead

But forgetting about the risk of rain for now, this track continues on across the fields, and then turns into a footpath as it starts to drop down towards the very northern end of Winterburn Reservoir - where we can cross over via a pretty stone bridge.

From here the climbing resumes once again, and ahead lies just over two hundred meters of climbing, as we head up to The Weets.

Looking back towards the reservoir (and our bridge)

Looking back from further up the hill

Heading on up the path towards The Weets, there is a bit of drizzle in the air, but I get fairly lucky here, as whilst I'm getting these spots of rain - it is now raining much more heavily in the valley behind me.

This drizzle is enough to have me back into all my winter layers, as by this time of year the rain is no longer that lovely warm rain you get in June and July, but that cold winter rain you get from October onwards.

But I can't really complain since I have got through just in time to avoid the worst of the rain, and by the time I reach the trig point at The Weets, the drizzle has completely subsided.

From here it is time to start heading down hill and give up all that hard earned height - but dropping down on the track from The Weets, the countryside that opens up beneath is very dramatic and for once I'm fairly excited to be heading downhill.

The view on the way down (the camera doesn't really do it justice - it's very dramatic in the flesh)

I think the one on the right is Great Knott but I'm not 100%

After a long descent down Hawthorns Lanes, I eventually pass by Gordale House and get a view out towards Gordale Scar.

Gordale Scar

Not wanting to have to wait around for the later train today, I don't really have enough spare time to head up and take a proper look at Gordale Scar - but in any case it is closed off as they are doing filming for the new Harry Potter TV series.

In the Deathly Hallow's film, Harry and Hermione bizarrely decided that the top of Malham Cove (visited by about 100,000 people each year) would be the ideal spot to use as a quiet hideout where they would never be found by anyone (presumably Voldemort and his Death Eaters weren't very keen on hikes through the Yorkshire Dales). As I walk through, I can't quite work out why the new TV series would be filming here since it should be starting from the very beginning again, but I'm sure it will be for an equally bizarre reason.

But since I do not have time to visit anyway, there is little disruption for me today, and instead I continue on along the route of the Dales High Way - turning off the road to follow a busy footpath as I leave behind the prior solitude of my walk, to now walk among the crowds that tend to gather around Malham Cove.

The footpath from Gordale Scar to Malham Cove (this was a gap in the crowds)

This footpath continues on round towards Malham Cove, with only a few minor diversions as I pass the filming crews set up along this part of the route.

Ahead I cross over one of the roads heading up into the hills from Malham, and then passing even more film crews, begin my final stretch round to the top of Malham Cove, where I find (you guessed it!) more film crews.

Top of Malham Cove

The top of Malham Cove is once again blocked off for filming - but in any case I'm glad to have already done this route via the Pennine Way heading up Malham Cove from Malham itself,  as without having done that route I'd once again be wishing that I had spare time to go explore.

As it is, I join up with the route of the Pennine Way heading north, as both routes head up through Ing Scar.

Passing Ing Scar

At the top of this climb, the Pennine Way turns right to head past Comb Hill, but our route along the Dales High Way turns left towards Langscar Gate - and so waving goodbye to the Pennine Way, we head on - now heading west towards Settle.

Looking back from Langscar Gate

Crossing over a minor road at Langscar Gate, the path starts to climb ever upwards, turning left to pass through Grizedales, as it picks up the passage of the Pennine Bridleway route.

Malham Tarn in the distance as we meet up with the route of the Pennine Bridleway

From here the path then kinks right again as it passes Kirkby Fell, and ahead lie Scars galore, in the form of Great Scar, Settle Scar - and in the distance Attermire Scar.

Scars to the right and fells to the left

This begins a really pretty stretch on the way to Settle - heading past Stockdale Farm, and then turning off to the right to pass underneath the hugely underrated Attermire Scar.

Whilst Malham Cove and Gordale Scar have literal coach loads of visitors, the remarkable stretch of path ahead passing underneath Attermire Scar is pretty deserted - and I left behind my last fellow walkers before Kirkby Fell (spoliers - I pass four other people on the way from here to Settle).

But despite this, its's a brilliant path and the views are pretty incredible.

Leaving behind the Pennine Bridleway - which I think takes a slightly gentler route into Settle

Closer up view

Further round - I think there is footpath through the gap in the hills heading up to Brent Scar

I think this is Warrendale Knotts

As a way to end the day this has been pretty good, and from here it is now only a mile or so to Settle - and so if you want a short but relatively quiet spot with incredible views, a walk out from Settle doesn't sound a bad idea. That said, I suspect the best route would be to head out on the Pennine Bridleway and then back via this path, as the Bridleway route is likely to be less steep out of Settle (although you still would have a hill to climb because that's how hills work and as a caveat I have never done that route - it is on the list!).

But now I have the chance for one look back towards Attermire Scar, before heading on and starting my descent down into Settle.

Final look back

Settle comes into view

My expectations for Settle were based upon what I'd seen on the train through, and without wanting to be too rude, the houses you spot from the train on your way through Settle are a little bit ugly.

But now I have seen it from above, my view of Settle is transformed - as below me sits a mini-Edinburgh, with a lovely model-village-like layout sat before me.

Settle closer up

The valley slightly north of Settle

And indeed as I drop down, Settle is a charming little town full of all the character you would expect from a rural Yorkshire Dales town.

And so, it is a delightful walk as I head round to the station and settle myself down to wait for the train (did you see what I did there? 'Settle', eh? eh?). Before long the train has arrived and I begin my journey home after a lovely day in the hills.

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 98 and 103 OS Landranger maps - while there is also a Dales High Way guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.