Thames Path - Maidenhead to Reading (★★★★☆)

Today was the second of five days spent walking the Thames Path - having spent the previous day walking from Weybridge up to Maidenhead. This second day would continue the journey across a fairly long stretch of the Thames Path, finishing off in Reading.

My day began with a fairly early start, but Maidenhead was already very busy - with the roads jammed full of traffic trying to get away to work before the going got too impossible. Having seen the delight of the river side houses the prior evening - here was a chance to see what must be done to pay for these homes.

But having joined back up with the river, the stretch out of town heads north alongside the A4094 - and it is at least quite a pretty stretch of road to walk along.

Heading north out of town

From here it is on up to Boulter's Lock and whilst there is a footbridge over to the islands, we continue on up the road, before turning off onto a quiet footpath.

A boat arriving at Boulter's Lock

Once on the footpath there is a very pleasant route out of town that is busy with morning walkers - and here I stop at a bench for some early breakfast.

Heading out through the fields there are a few sights in the grounds of Cliveden House on the far side of the river, but soon after those sights are first seen the path turns to the left to head through to village of Cookham. Achieving a personal first on my travels, here I pass nannies taking their charges to school (it is quite a posh area).

The path cuts through Cookham and heads past the church on the way, before rejoining the river as we head on up towards Bourne End.

Church in Cookham

Back following alongside the Thames, the path heads on up through open fields, before crossing over next to the railway bridge - and then continuing along on the far side - passing the boats moored up at Bourne End.

From here it is on through open fields until we pass by Quarry Wood on the far side (apparently an inspiration for the Wild Wood's in Wind in the Willows), before cutting through Marlow.

Looking back at Marlow Bridge

Here I make a bit of a navigational mistake - not realising that there is a diversion that starts at Marlow Bridge. 

At this point I should have gone over bridge and on down along the roads to rejoin the intended route of the Thames Path near Hurley (diverted due to the need to repair Temple Footbridge).

This mistake did add distance, but in many ways I'm glad I made the mistake as this is a wonderful section along the Thames as you head on down past All Saints Church.

All Saints Church on the far side

Eventually I do realise my error and head back to Marlow, cross over the Thames and then complete a very forgettable section walking along pavements and quiet roads, before at long last I get to be re-united with the river just before Hurley.

Back at the river

Having just done a fairly long section on tarmac, and with there being a rather inviting bench, here I stop and have a rest - and some food to eat.

Once the bridge is back in action - and it did look like they were making good progress on it today - Marlow to Hurley looks like a really lovely walk to do, and upon reaching Hurley the path cuts onto the islands and then back to the river side.

Hurley Lock

Just past Hurley

There is now a very rural feel to the walk, and this continues as we head on past Frogmill - and then on heading towards Aston.

Before reaching Aston, we pass through the grounds of Culham House - and it is here that everything shifts back to a country park feel.

Grounds of Culham House

Continuing through the grounds

Heading through the grounds, I start to come across a herd of animals that are hard to identify - from a distance they look a bit like llamas, but as I get closer they start to look more like white reindeer.

It turns out that these are white fallow deer that are kept on the estate.

White fallow deer at Culham Court (had to zoom in a bit, so a little grainy)

At Aston the path joins up with the road and then heads down to the river (passing warning signs about peacocks crossing the road), and then at the bottom there is a left turn to continue alongside the river once more.

From here it is a short walk up to Hambleden Lock, opposite to Mill End.

Hambledon Lock

Very slightly further ahead up the path

The Thames Path now heads out alongside very flat open fields, as it continues to bend round - ready to head south and into Henley - passing Temple Island after completing this change of direction.

Temple Island

From here the path heads pretty much in a straight line on past Remenham, and then into Henley - and after having a fairly quiet section of path on the way towards Aston, the tow path is getting increasingly busy. Here we cross over at Henley Bridge, and start to head down along the river on the far side.

Coming up to Henley Bridge

Looking out from Henley Bridge

The next section is a busy stretch of tow path that heads on down past the moored boats, on the way to Mill Bank Lock.

Walking out from Henley

Continuing on down the tow path

Just before Mill Bank Lock

Here it once again seems that I haven't been paying full attention, as we have another diversion - which is frustrating as I'm now just over a mile away from Shiplake, whilst the diversion offered is a fairly long (I'd guess about 3 miles) meander along the roads round via Harpsden.

Here I break from my usual response to a diversion, and decide to take the second suggestion on the notice board - making the walk back to Henley, and jumping on the train to Shiplake. This means I'm no longer walking a continuous path along the Thames, but it also means I retain some level of sanity as I've had enough of diversions onto roads by this point.

With this cheeky little jump in progress complete (to be fair, the walk back to Henley was roughly the same distance as I should have walked to Shiplake), it is time to head south from Shiplake - initially along a minor road and then across the fields.

Here the Thames Path joins back up with the river, and start heading in a more westerly direction along the river.

Down at the river near Shiplake

Once again there is more of a quieter rural vibe to proceedings and this continues along much of the stretch to Sonning - where it is once again necessary to cross over the river and start to head along on the opposite side.

The mill ponds at Sonning

Continuing on along the far side

From here the going is a initially pretty good, but it steadily gets a little less exciting as we head past Thames Valley Business Park.

Then after crossing over the connection up with the River Kennet (and with the Kennet & Avon canal, which runs on from here to Bath), the going gets less good as you pass the long line of boats that are clearly permanently moored and used as cheap accommodation. In other places these often have neat little gardens, but here it is all a little bit more wild.

But it is not too far until it is on to Reading Bridge - where I cut down into town to stay over for the night.

Reading Bridge

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐⭐ ★ / 5

Click for a writeup of the walk on the following day, continuing on up the Thames from Reading to Goring.

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 175 OS Landranger map - while there is also a Thames Path guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.

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