Teesdale Way - Darlington to Yarm (★★★★☆)

I moved up to Teesside a bit under fifteen years ago - and the first thing I did upon moving up was to start walking sections of the Teesdale Way. And for a period I also used to commute to work along part of this trail.

Since then I have reduced the amount I walk this trail - favoring slightly more exotic trails that can be found further away. But each year in winter I tend to find time to do this section of the trail between Darlington and Yarm - and it's a nice section of the trail, even at this time of year.

And so today, I am continuing that tradition, heading out on the train to Darlington, which is always an town to visit.

The town reached the middle of the 19th century with a population of eleven thousand people - and then hit an era of prosperity, as the railway industry grew up around Darlington (the first railway ran past the River Tees from Stockton to Darlington after all). 

This resulted in the arrival of heavy engineering and iron foundries. And indeed, the Robert Stephenson and Company (the first company in the world created specifically to build railway engines), moved to Darlington in 1899.

The town today still shows a lot of signs of this prosperous era - including South Park, which we will walk through today - but combines this with signs of a retreat in prosperity, as those industrial centres closed.

What remains is a town that has not grown too large, is relatively cheap to live in, and yet is surrounded by expensive villages - and impressive stately homes.

And it is here that I head out from the train station, and begin to make my way down to South Park - which we will walk through on our way to join up with the Teesdale Way.

Having reached South Park, what we find is a Victorian era park, which has a number of sites that are Grade II listed - and which was originally gifted to the people of Darlington in the will of Sir James Belasses. 

In 1850 the trustees of the land (which was a farm at this time) decided it should be converted into a public park - which includes an aviary that until 2014 included a parrot called Max, who was known for swearing at passers by.

The bowling green at South Park (apologies for the odd angle)

The same in the snow on a prior visit (at a better angle)

And although we have a bit of a walk from the train station to the Teesdale Way, the route through this park is enjoyable - and the next section up through the houses isn't too bad either (with the character of the area not being too far off the surburbs of Edinburgh as we head past Blackwell Grange Hotel).

And as we head on into Blackwell we meet up with the Teesdale Way, where a right turn would take us down to the river, upstream, and on towards Barnard Castle.

But today we are heading downstream, and so instead we continue on along this road - and join up with the A66 where the OS Maps app says to turn left, but where my paper map gives the option of turning left or right. 

I have done both routes before, and turning left takes you across a golf course, then across some farmland, and finally along a road (along a slightly awkward grass verge) to Croft-on-Tees (on the far side of the River Tees).

Turning right is initially a worse option, but then improves, and takes you through more of Croft-on-Tees - and it is this right turn option that I prefer.

And so here we turn right, and head over Blackwell Bridge to a roundabout where the A66 heads off to join the M1.

Here the walking is not amazing, but we cross over and soon find ourselves heading into Stapleton, which is one of the many village dotted around the edge of Darlington.

Turning left, we head across a field and then up the drive to Stapleton Grange, passing by a group of horses along the way.

"Hello horses"

From Stapleton Grange we head along what is usually a very muddy track (it is frozen this morning) - and then on through the trees to Monk End Farm, and on into Croft-on-Tees.

Heading through the trees

The church at Croft-on-Tees

Croft-on-Tees is itself a pretty little village, and as an overnight stop would be preferable to an earlier stop over at Darlington.

The town was best known historically for its spa - and the sulphorous spring water that rose up near here was bottled up and sold as cures for ailments and diseases across the country.

This spa also attracted enough tourism to support the two hotels (which are now more useful for walking), and the town got it's own station along the railway - which has since closed (due to this being the busy East Coast Mainline, which doesn't have time for frivolous stops in spa towns).

Here we head over the stone bridge, and up the hill on the far side - before dropping down to head alongside the railway, as an LNER train heads off down towards London.

From here we cut across the grounds of Rockcliffe Hall Hotel (before you even look it up it is too expensive a hotel for the likes of you) - where you might catch a glimpse of the Middlesborough football team training in the far distance.

Here we are quickly smuggled past this hotel, and head on towards Hurworth-on-Tees.

The hills of the North Yorkshire Moors on the horizon

"Good morning!"

On the way to Hurworth I make a small diversion, as I'm slightly afraid of helping a very friendly sheep escape from it's field (see above), and then head through this fairly posh little village on the edge of Darlington.

From here we have a stretch walking along side a road (along a wide pavement), that takes us along to the village of Neasham - where we cross over and follow the river once again.

Heading out of Neasham

From here our path continues along a road once again, but this time we are heading along an extremely minor road that heads south into land that is entirely surrounded by the River Tees (the only bridge along this section is a footbridge across to Girsby).

At the base of this land is Sockburn Hall, which sits at the far end of the Sockburn Peninsula.

And this site is more notable than you would expect given it's location in the middle of nowhere - and was the spot in which Higbald (who wrote a detailed description of the Viking raids in 793) was made Bishop of Lindisfarne.

And in 796 this would also be the spot where Eanbald was made Archbishop of York - suggesting that this was a fairly prominent location during the second half of the 8th century.

Later in medieval times this area crops up again in the tale of the Sockburn Worm - a wyvern (type of dragon) that laid waste to the village of Sockburn (and presumably this devastation is the reason why there is absolutely nothing here today).

This beast was finally slain by John Conyers (who was rewarded with the lands around surrounding hte village) using the Conyers Falchion, which is to this day presented to each new Bishop of Durham.

And whilst this tale is largely forgotten, it is believed that this tale, along with the legend of the Lambton Worm (another dragon, this time based up in Wearside), inspired Lewis Carroll to write the Jabberwocky.

 

But although we no longer have to fear attack by dragons any more, we will no go so far down this peninsula, for we soon find ourselves turning off the road to head north, and then east.

Note that the paper map I have also shows an alternate route down to High Sockburn, before heading east and over Girsby Bridge, then cutting up to Over Dinsdale (having walked both routes I do love crossing Girsby Bridge, but prefer this route overall).

Heading east (with the hills of the North Yorkshire Moors on the horizon again)

Turning round to head north

After reaching some pretty houses at The Ashes, we turn to head north through some very empty countryside, which takes us up to Low Dinsale.

On the map we spot Earthworks here, which means another history lesson - and these mark the site of a moated Manor House, which was the manorial seat of the Surtees family from the 12th century to the 19th century - and this was a family who came over from France after the Norman conquest.

In this case the family story dates back to an individual named Siward, and whilst he slew no dragons, he was tasked with guarding the crossing of the Tees at Dinsdale - and there is a clue in the name, for Sur Tees means "on Tees" in French.

The Surtees family went on to become hugely successful, and married into the Redworth Estate - and if you visit the impressive Redworth Hall Hotel, do look out for the salmons on the chimney stack - which reference back to the fishpools of Dinsdale, where it all began.

But leaving Low Dinsdale behind, we head on into Dinsdale Woods, which prove to be quite slippery underfoot now that the sun has had time to warm the ground up.

Heading from Low Dindale into Dinsdale Woods

Dinsdale Woods

The woods themselves are not at their best at this time of year, for the trees are all deciduous - but the walking is still pleasant enough as we head on round, and into, Middleton-one-Row.

Here a bridge would have once sat, along an old Roman Road that came up from the Humber, through York, past Thirsk, over a now gone stone bridge at this site, on through Sadberge, east of Durham, past Chester-le-Street, and on to Newcastle (with a branch off to Arbeia fort at South Shields).

And indeed on the map you can see a nice straight section of road up to Sedberge - and separate sections of straight road down to Hornby, and on past Northallerton.

Again the village here was most notable as a spa resort - but whilst the Devonport Hotel remains a lovely place to either stop off or stay over, these days this is just another of the quiet villages that sit along the River Tees.

It does, however, have a train station (Dinsdale train station), which can be used to break up this trail. And this station replaced one of the world's oldest train stations, which operated from the Fighting Cocks pub, slightly to the north of the current station (with the older route of the railway line now being a cycle track and footpath).

Continuing on we follow the path of the Tees on across the fields towards Low Middleton, where we cut up to head past Newsham Grange, cutting off a bend in the river.

Heading towards Low Middleton

From Neasham Grange we follow round a very minor road that heads out to this farm (the only other traffic was a horse), and then drop down off the ridge to join up with the Tees once again.

The view down form the ridge

And looking forwards...

This kicks off a fairly muddy and rugged section that can be heavy going at times, as this section of the river is often liable to flood - and this deposits a lot of sticky and slippery silt onto the surface of the banks.

But we do at least have a very quiet walk through the trees along this stretch, with views out across the river - and after clearing a bend in the river we come up past Low Worsall, and start heading on towards Yarm.

Looking across the river before passing Low Worsall

Here we are walking on the edge of fields, and there is only a fairly narrow (and sometimes slippery) path to follow - but there is slightly better grip to be found walking on the vegetation just above the edge of the field. 

Soon we pass Aislaby Grange, and leave behind these fields - entering a new section which is mostly grazed by sheep.

Through this section we are mostly walking along wooden boards (that in some places are showing their age) - but these boards are very welcome, as they get us across some fairly marshy terrain.

Finally, we start seeing dog walkers out as we close in on Yarm - passing it by on the western side, and with the centre of this town sitting in a very narrow loop in the river - with the housing then stretching out to the north, and to the south.

Passing St Mary Magdalene Church on the far side of the Tees

Here we close in on the northern end of the town centre - and finish our walk, as I'll be heading on up home - and you'll either be heading on up to Allens West train station (the nearest station to this point), or into Yarm for the night.

Sunset across the fields

Yarm really marks the end of the rural stretch of the River Tees, and whilst the next section passes along a housing free corridor, it then heads into the increasingly urban centres of Stockton and Middlesborough. 

It always surprises me how rural this stretch remains, as it passes right up to the start of heavily populated areas - and although it is probably one of my most generous 4-star ratings (really it is a 3.75 rating and half way between a 3-star and a 4-start), it is an enjoyable walk. And that is why I do it every year.

Total Distance: 21.8 miles (18.4 miles on the Teesdale Way)

Total Ascent: 961 feet (761 feet on the Teesdale Way)

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐⭐ ★ / 5

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 93 OS Landranger map - while there is also a Teesdale Way guidebook but this DOES NOT include OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.