Offas Dyke - Chirk to Oswestry (★★★☆☆)

Today the plan is to go somewhere a bit different - and here I have decided to tick off two additional days of walking along the Offa's Dyke Path.

So far I have done four days on this trail (I only have writeups for two, but will return to redo the other two) - and here we are ticking off a stretch near the middle of the trail.

With this in mind, the day starts by heading out by train to Chirk train station - and whilst the train station doesn't lie directly on the trail, you can either cut across past Chirk Castle, or head up a short stretch of the Llangollen Canal.

My plan here is to take the second option, and so having arrived at Chirk, I head up that canal until it is time to cross over it (including a fairly long stretch through a fairly dark tunnel) - and for the first time meet up with Offa's Dyke Path (a journey of about 2 miles).

Along this stretch, the canal is fairly unexciting - but along the next stretch of Offa's Dyke Path heading north there is the option to head over Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (a World Heritage listed site), instead of following the official route of the path along the road (which does have views towards the aqueduct).

The canal is one I would like to walk at some point - but this particular stretch of the canal (between the station and the turn off for Offa's Dyke Path) is a slightly unexciting one (aside from the trip through the tunnel).

But in any case, from here we are going to do a loop around Chirk Castle - walking on the far side of it from Chirk train station - and to do so we must first head across the fields, and put up with the slightly awkward nature of the trail.

Heading out across the fields

The idea of this trail is to follow the dyke built on the instruction of King Offa of Mercia in the 8th century (the King obviously didn't actually build the dyke with his own hands). 

This is great when the dyke passes through lovely countryside, but here we have the flip side of that deal - with the trail doing its best to try and hold course with the dyke across fields and along quiet lanes, rather than merely looking for a pretty path.

And after a brief trips along the fields, we are stuck walking along quiet lanes (broken up by a brief trip along a field) - but here we do at least have good views out towards Chirk Castle from this lane.

Looking out towards Chirk Castle (in the centre, on the hill)

Chirk Castle itself dates back to the very end of the 13th century - and was one of a number of castles ordered to be built by Edward I, as he sought to gain control over Wales.

The first English king to unite Britain was King Athelstan (who ruled during the 10th century, and achieved overlordship over Scotland and Wales) - but it was Edward I who can claim to be the first to properly bring Scotland and Wales under English control (ending - at least temporarily - the line of Scottish and Welsh kings).

The Welsh did revolt in response to this situation, but the leader of the revolt - Madog ap Llywelyn - was captured in 1295, and it seemed that revolt is difficult when your opponent controls a line of well fortified castles.

These days the castle is owned by the National Trust - and it is possible to diver off and explore the castle and it's grounds. 

But shortly after we first sight the castle, our time following the lanes facing this castle comes to an end - and now we start to descend down through a sheep field - with this giving our first properly good views of the day - as we drop down into the valley of the River Ceirlog. 

Dropping into the valley

Having done the first of this descent across the fields, we return to country lanes for the rest of our trip down to the base of this valley.

Dropping down on quiet lanes

At the base, we cross over the river - and then very briefly meet up with a busier road (one where you can expect to see actual cars) - before we start a climb up the far side of the ridge - initially following a lane heading to a cluster of houses, and then continuing to head up through the fields.

Here we don't have the biggest climb to do, but it is a fairly steep one that eventually takes us over the top of the ridge.

Looking back towards Chirk Castle whilst heading up the ridge

Now from near the top of the ridge

By this point we are now following what I have affectionately termed Offa's Hedge - with our path now very clearly following the original route of the dyke - but with this earthwork now forming part of the field line (and being covered in vegetation).

And this route along 'Offa's Hedge' sets the tone for the next few miles of walking - albeit with a bit of variety coming in the contents of the fields themselves - which vary between hay fields, sheep fields and cow fields - with the cows being the most friendly of the lot.

They were a curious but slightly skittish bunch

Now approaching the furthest end of Craignant

Those who don't like cows might not like this section of path - but the cows were no bother, and were more curious than anything else.

At Craignant, we swap over to lane walking - although with this turning into a grassy track that takes us out across the fields.

Following a grassy track

Eventually though, we have to say goodbye to the grass - and once again return to tarmac, as we follow a quiee lane towards Oswestry Race Course.

The grandstand at Oswestry Race Course

Horse racing is believed to have begun here in the 17th century - following a figure of eight track that made use of the higher ground - and the racing here grew in popularity in the 19th century, before seeing a decline in popularity, as it became easier to travel further afield.

In the end, the last race meeting was held here in 1848 - but the area inside the old course is now open access land, that you are free to explore at your own freedom.

Once we are beyond the route of the course, the path heads through what was recently woods (they have been cut down), before we head into actual woods, as we start to get some very light rain.

View from the woods

And it is here in these woods that our time on the Offa's Dyke Path will (for now) come to an end (we will be back tomorrow) - as there is a path here, that will hopefully provide a nice route to Oswestry.

And so - at a junction where the Offa's Dyke Path turns to the right - we turn to the left, and follow what is so far a good path through - and then out of - these woods.

Once out of the woods, the path ahead is clearly visible as a mown slice through the open fields that form part of the Llanforda Estate.

Towards the end of my journey across the fields

The estate was purchased by a family investment trust, and it is not clear who exactly owns it - but it is clear that they have done a lovely job of the estate - with it being a very easy path to follow round until a section of woods (about half way towards Oswestry).

Here we head through these woods, before continuing on the far side - and eventually meet up with Broomhall Lane.

After returning on the following day I found that a better route is probably the footpath that runs just below Broomfield Lane, which can be reached either by going round the woods to the south, or dropping down just before reaching Broomfield Lane.

This lane takes us into Oswestry - which turns out to be a bit of a mix between a commuter town and a historic town - with the modern aspects being to me a bit soulless, but with there being some genuine character behind that.

I didn't make the effort to go see it, as it would have added a bit of unwanted extra mileage - but one of the most notable parts of Oswestry is the Iron Age hill fort - which lies to the north of the town.

Oswestry Hill Fort - Source: English Heritage

The earthworks of this hill fort remain - and it was incorporated into Wat's Dyke (a shorter predecessor to Offa's Dyke) in the early medieval period.

Oswestry also had a fairly basic motte and bailey castle - that was built in 1086, not too long after the Norman conquest - but despite it being upgraded over time, not much of that castle remains today (and again I didn't bother to visit it).

The town itself did, however, frequently change hands between the English and Welsh throughout this period - and whilst it is now part of England, the English-Welsh border very clearly makes a loop around the town, before heading further east to the north and south.

But today it merely serves as my place of rest for the night - before we will continue on towards Welshpool on the following day.

Total Distance: 15.0 miles (9.7 miles along Offa's Dyke Path)

Total Ascent: 2,120 feet (2,054 feet along Offa's Dyke Path)

Enjoyment Rating: ⭐⭐⭐ ★ ★ / 5

It is not a bad walk - but it does involve a lot of country lanes, and by following the route of the dyke we have to endure some fairly average countryside along the way. Overall it makes for a decent day out, but not one you are desperate to go do again.

Click for a writeup of the following day, walking the Offa's Dyke Path from Oswestry to Welshpool

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 126 OS Landranger map - while there is also an Offa's Dyke guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked, but the route in reality does sometimes differ from the route on the map which can complicate things a little