Dales Way - Grassington to Ilkley (★★★★★)

The Dales Way is a walk I had started a year ago - and last September I had spent two days walking (mostly along) this trail, from Dent train station in the Yorkshire Dales to Ambleside in the Lake District (the final stretch to Ambleside was beyond the end of the Dales Way).

Originally the plan was to walk the rest of the trail over two days, staying in Grassington - but lately I have been splitting walks up into smaller chunks - and today the plan is to head out and to do a single day of walking, along the Dales Way from Grassington to Ilkley.

I will return at some point to walk from Grassington to Dent train station to complete the Dales Way - but for now we have the very eastern end of that trail in our sights.

The first task of the day is to take the train out to Ilkley - which is easily done due to the half hourly service between Leeds and Ilkely - before getting on the bus from Ilkley to Grassington.

This final stage of the journey proves to be both the prettiest, and the most problematic - and part of the challenge of this is the bus' (lack of) frequency.

As my train was leaving Darlington, this bus was making it's way out from York - and so by the time it arrives in Ilkley it already has rather a lot of passengers.

At this point there is a genuine question of whether we are going to be able to fit on the bus, and here the tension is not helped by a genius of a man up ahead, asking his wife if he is going to need to fold the pushchair when he gets on the bus (erm... yes).

But we do indeed make it on - and get to enjoy a sadistic game of sardines until a large group exits the bus at Bolton Bridge.

For all this complaining, the existence of this bus does make this point-to-point walk possible - but at the same time, the Yorkshire Dales is particularly weak when it comes to public transportation - and the fact that this bus starts and ends the day in York (before shuttling back and forth to Ilkley in the middle of the day) helps demonstrate how weak the bus network is in this area.

But for all this, Ikley is still a very good entry and exit point into the Yorkshire Dales (along with Skipton).

And once the bus empties enough for everyone to be able to get a seat (two-thirds of the way round towards Grassington), there is more ability to enjoy the view - and here it is clear to see why the bus is so busy - because it is a cracking route through some terrific scenery.

Eventually we are plopped down at the National Park Visitor Centre in Grassington, at one of the many car parks that form the modern backbone of the Yorkshire Dales.

And from here we are able to explore more of this pretty village - which is now used to film the rather excellent modern edition of All Creatures Great and Small.

But we are primarily here for the walking - and not to sit and waste the day away at the coffee shops of the village, dreaming about being on the TV - and so start to make our way out of the village, along the Dales Way to the River Wharfe.

Down by the River Wharfe

Looking back at the bridge

As we stand here, we are actually stood not too far from the site of a former train station - which used to sit just on the other side of this river, on a trainline which once ran from Skipton to Grassington (and which still exists across most of the route, up until it's terminus at Swinden Quarry - about two miles down the road from us).

An old picture of Grassington train station, Source: Grassington Folk Museum

In the days when we were a proper country (that thought nothing of wasting money on clearly-doomed-to-fail railway projects), there were plans to extend this railway line up to Hawes - but as early as 1930 passenger services had ceased along this line (probably due to the fact that barely anyone lived here).

At times there have been campaigns to re-open the railway line to passengers (much of it does still exist after all), but it seems unlikely that this would ever happen except as a heritage line. 

And in all honesty, it would suffice for Ilkely to have a small bus depot, a few more buses, and a few more bus drivers.

But as we head out across this countryside, I feel obliged to offer our usual disclaimer that this is not true Herriot country - and that any such claims made by the Yorkshire Dales are the claims of liars and charlatans.

James Herriot - or Alf Wight as he was known in real life - worked in Thirsk, at the very south of the North Yorkshire Moors - or about an hours drive away.

But for all this, it remains very obvious why this area was used in the filming for the series - because on our journey around Grassington (and down to the river), we have been able to enjoy the walk around a town that has held a lot of it's character.

And whilst Thirsk would need a certain amount (or more honestly, an awful lot) of work to get it to look right for filming - the village here looks in person very much as it does in the series (minus the horses and old cars).

The Devonshire Arms (or the Drover's Arms in the series)

Grassington House - which bears an uncanny resemblance to the real Skeldale House

That said - village itself feels more similar to villages around Kendal in the Lake District than your classic Yorkshire Dales village - and remains as one of the bigger villages in the area.

But as we walk on, we turn our back on Grassington, but not on the people who have come to visit - who unusually for many of the walks I do, persist in appearing along our path.

In some ways this is unacceptable behaviour - and I am more used to having as far as I can along the horizon to myself - but with this area being so accessible from Leeds, Skipton and Ilkley we may just have to get used to it for this one day.

Looking back (I appreciate that these pictures show no other people, but there were people)

Same comment as above but looking forwards

All the same it is an enjoyable walk as we continue to follow the River Wharfe round to an option to cross the river via either a bridge (the popular option), or via a set of stepping stones - which is the option we use today.

A (very rare) action shot of yours truly

Some of the jumps are rather large for those with stubby little legs, but it is a more exciting option than the bridge - and as an added bonus there are some cheers from the folk on the bridge, as we make our way across to the far side (maybe fellow walkers are okay after all?).

And once we make it to the far side, a new set of walkers have made their way towards the stepping stones as we have broken the taboo - and made stepping stones great again.

The scenery continues to be lovely

By this point we have made our way past Hebden - and whilst we see no sign of it, we are soon looping our way around Burnsall.

As we do so, we come up to another area that is particular hot spot for people - but here the river also takes on a new character - cutting through what looks to me like some large slabs of gritstone.

See there were people (and the rock is visible on the far bank)

The rock here is not pervasive, and so there are times when we are stood on the rock, and times when we are looking across to a rocky cliff on the far side of the river - but things flatten out as we round the corner and reach Burnsall Bridge.

A pretty pub at Burnsall

Looking towards Burnsall and Thorpe Fell from the bridge

The area on Burnsall and Thorpe Fell is part of Embsay Moor - and takes on a very different character to the rolling (presumably limestone) hills we have been walking through - with an area of boggy peatland sitting at the top of that fell.

This small patch of peatland up on the top of that fell, gives this stretch of the river a bit of a Highlands of Scotland feel - and it's a cracking spot of countryside to look out on (you can walk up the fell as it is Open Access land, but I imagine it gets quite wet underfoot in winter).

Our path turns away from that wilder stretch of countryside - and instead we take on a rather refined route across the fields, with the masses heading in the opposite direction - either back to their cars, or out from the campsite that lies ahead.

And as we close in upon that campsite, we suddenly find that a lot of inflatable boats are heading towards us - as the modern love of camping and inflatable boating becomes the dominant theme.

View across the river near Appletreewick

Having passed the first of the big campsites, the path quietens down as we continue on past Barden Fell, and then on beyond more campsites.

View across the river passing the next set of campsites

One of the good things about the next campsite, is that the good folk using it have the kindness to stay sat within their pitches - which whilst bad for them in terms of enjoying the wonderful countryside, does keep the path clear as we head past.

But from here our flirtation with campers comes to an end - as we start to close in on Barden Bridge.

On the way to Barden Bridge

But by the time we reach Barden Bridge, my focus on the countryside has completely gone - and for those interested only in the hills, fields and trees you may want to skip ahead here - because Barden Bridge car park is in itself a site of human curiosity.

Here we find the home of Barden Bridge Barbecues, with every other car having a group of people clustered around barbecuing some food.

And whilst we are currently in some lovely countryside, clearly the thing to do here is not to enjoy a walk through this countryside, but to sit around your car (ideally an Uber), get out the barbecue - and to spend the day next to your car eating some (admittedly very nicely smelling) food.

This is fascinating to watch, and by this point, I'm not sure if I'm still out for a walk - or whether I have become an informal anthropologist - but we are a fascinating species, and these car parks must be one of this countries prime spots from which to study our modern habits.

But having cleared the car park, we once again return quickly to a fairly quite stretch of path - as we make our way towards a rather fancy bridge of (apparently) no name.

Looking back towards the Bardon Bridge Barbecues

View from the fortifications on the bridge

Having crossed the bridge

The bridge itself is clearly ornamental - and for the fortifications to be of any use, any defenders would have to be at most about four feet tall (maybe there was a dwarf colony here?).

But this is a very grand estate that is most notable for having once had a particularly fat cow, and for still being a reminder that the world is not a fair place.

In 1807 the reverend William Carr achieved the pinnacle of his life, when he bred Britain's fattest ever cow on the Bolton Abbey Estate - which later went on to be known as the Craven Heifer (name now of a pub that is apparently rather good).

This cow stood at seven feet tall, weighted in at nearly two tonnes, and is still recognised as Britain's largest and heaviest cow of all time.

And indeed, she was so fat that her cowshed needed to have a new door installed so that she could continue to get in and out of it (and if unlike me you are sufficiently interested, you can go see this doorway).

Making a sculpture of our fattest ever cow, Source: BBC

This fat lump of bovine bulk, ultimately ended up going on tour - before being gambled away in a cockfight, and then being butchered by the winner (presumably to make an awful lot of burgers and saugages).

But the cow had lived long enough to surpass it's great rival (think Ronaldo vs Messi) - the Ketton Ox (or later Durham Ox once it had become famous) - which passed away in the same year that the the Craven Heifer was born.

But as I have already hinted at, this fat cow is not the only notable thing about the Bolton Abbey Estate - and if anyone were to ever get too big for their boots, you need only ask if they are as successful as the Cavendish family - who secured this estate through marriage in 1748.

In doing so they added this to their list of estates, which also include Chatsworth House and Lismore Castle in Ireland.

But before we give them too much hate for their success, we must acknowledge that as a family, they have contributed a load of very good walking routes through their estates.

And so it is that as we continue on along this section of path, we continue to enjoy some lovely paths - whilst also noticing a narrowing of the river, as it cuts a gorge through the rock.

The river has become very narrow

In the photo it looks like we are now looking at some small stream, but in fact this is still the same river - and there is a deep network of caves underneath the surface, and apparently the underwater currents are particularly strong here.

Along with a number of other stretches of river in other parts of Britain, this is Britain's most dangerous stretch of river - and (I believe) most recently claimed the lives of (a recently married) couple in 1998, who seem to have drowned here after a period of heavy rainfall (external link).

But in the end we decide not to test how dangerous the river really is - and instead continue on round until we reach the Cavendish Pavilion - which whilst designed to look like a train station, was never actually one.

This here is a particularly popular spot for visitors (supported by it's extensive levels of parking) - and for this reason, it is nice to cross over the bridge, and return to a bit more peace and quiet again.

Crossing over the bridge by the Cavendish Pavilion

But whilst the crowds reduce once away from the Pavilion, this remains a busy section due to the popularity of the walking loop from the Pavilion down to the Priory (and back) - and so the next section is spent dodging the masses as we work our way round to the Priory.

But there are at least little games to play, and tunnels to crawl through along the way.

The priory comes into view

Looking back from the same spot towards North Nab

Staying with the route of the Dales Way through this section is not easy - but we do manage to faithfully hold with it's path until we reach our next set of Stepping Stones along our journey.

This here was at one point the main means through which monks could cross this river - but here we must use the bridge as there is a long (and slow moving) line of families crossing the stones from the far side.

Crossing the bridge

Bolton Abbey Priory was built by Augustian monks in the twelfth century - and the site was significantly expanded in the 14th century. And then in the 16th century, the West Tower was added - which is the section that remains today.

A close up view

In 1539 the Priory was dissolved - but the western end of the Priory was spared, as it continued to serve the local community as a church.

In the end Thomas Cromwell got the lead from the roof (and the church bells), the valuables went to the king, the gatehouse became Bolton Abbey Hall, and land was sold off to the local nobles.

But these days, this primarily seems to be a spot to bring the family and to laze around in - with one of the larger groups even having a few people in high-viz keeping things nicely organised.

And so whilst it is a very pretty spot - it lacks the calm of sites like Finchdale Priory (near Durham) - and in some ways it is nice to move on from, despite it's beauty.

Looking back towards the Priory

From here it is a quieter walk round to Bolton Bridge - with a cricket game going on as we walk past - but then we meet up with one of the worst sections of the Dales Way, as the good paths come to an end - and as we face a spot of road walking.

Whilst walking through this section we do hear the sound of a steam engine - and what we can hear is the Embsay & Bolton Abbey Steam Railway - which runs from a station about half a mile from Bolton Bridge, round to Embsay.

This is a heritage line that runs along the old route between Skipton and Ilkley - which closed in 1965 after the Beeching Report. 

It is quite a short line, but there have been plans discussed to extend the route round to Addingham - with that section of former track currently running through open countryside. But this would be quite a large addition of track, which would come at a fairly hefty cost vs the budget of the railway.

Equally there have been plans discussed to extend round to Skipton - although in this case, whilst the track exists, the connecting points would need to be reinstated (to join up with the line down from the quarry near Grassington), and the old platforms at Skipton would need to be rebuilt.

This second option seems the most likely - given the boost the line would get from that connection with Skipton train station - but even then the costs are fairly considerable.

But having only heard rather than seen those trains - and once safely through this section of road, we get into a parallel field - and then return to the road, as we pass by Lobwood House and Fairfield Hall.

We are not on this road for long, however, before we turn off and rejoin the river - once again enjoying a delightful countryside walk.

Back alongside the river

And round the corner

Here there is an opportunity to have a little rest ahead of the final assault on Ilkley - and after this rest we continue along this river, and pass some friendly cows who give me a lick on my way by.

Not everyone is a big fan of cows - but even though they aren't fat enough to break records, these are a very friendly set of cows - and the most friendly looks a little hurt as I walk away, and say goodbye.

From here it isn't long until we reach Addingham, where we follow a nice route past some cottages, and on through the church - before walking close by the river for a stretch until we reach Low Mill Cottages.

Addingham itself has some lovely houses - of which the nicest is the old Rectory (which currently sits on Zoopla with a value in excess of £5m for those interested in buying it).

But beyond this there are some tastefully done new builds at Low Mill Cottages - and it is fortunate that it has been a pretty stretch - because the next bit is a bit of an ugly section, as we follow roads round to a turn off, which takes us back onto footpaths at Cocking End.

From here we are walking among dog walkers - and the game here is to try and guess which of the dog walkers owns the rather blingy Land Rover - with a bit of chaos occurring as one of the dog walkers forgets to put their dog on the lead as they pass by the sheep fields.

As a result, what were very chilled and friendly sheep as we headed past, were being chased and rounded up by a very energetic dog (as we looked back at the chaos) - before we pass another dog walker, who remarks "that is why you put a dog on a lead".

With those wise old words in our minds, we head on past a very fancy tennis club - and then continue along the river side into Ilkley.

The levels of signage across the day have not been particularly good - and by this point we have by now (without our knowledge) ended our time on the Dales Way - which comes to a halt as you draw level with the plant nursery, and a very old footbridge.

The bridge that marks the end of the Dales Way

These days I live in Teesside - and whilst I wouldn't say I'm unhappy there, the plan is to move somewhere with a bit more immediate countryside at some point - and so on my travels I'm always rating in my mind the relative quality of different places to live.

And here Ilkley seems to be a bit of a hidden gem - with a decent amount of very good walks you can do from Ilkely - but also very easy links by train to Leeds, and then on to other parts of the country.

But at the same time the town itself is lovely - and has the same feel to it as the better bits of Edinburgh.

And today there is just about time to stop off for a lone pint, before heading to the train station - and catching the train home.

Total Distance: 17.0 miles (of which 16.2 miles on the Dales Way)

Total Ascent: 807 feet (of which 712 feet on the Dales Way)

Enjoyment Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5

It is a well populated stretch of countryside, but the walking is truly excellent - and it's a thoroughly enjoyable walk that you would very happily go out and do again.

Click for a (nearly) connecting walk along the Dales High Way from Shipley to Skipton.

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 98 and 104 OS Landranger maps - while there is also a Dales Way guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is not that well way-marked