Thames Path - Newbridge to Oxford (★★★☆☆)

Today we are back following the Thames Path - and over the next two days we are aiming to complete the stretch between Oxford and Lechlade (which approximately marks the end of the Thames as a navigable river).

In general the Thames Path is one of the easier paths to walk, with much of the trail having both frequent train stations and frequent places to stay that will not break the budget.

But whilst the very western end of the trail has a very handy train station at Kemble - there is a reduced amount of transportation options for much of the stretch between Kemble and Oxford.

For those looking to do stretches as day walks, or stay of the trail, the best transportation option therefore becomes the bus - and today we will make use of the X15 bus that runs between Oxford and Newbridge (the version of the X15 that runs all the way to Witney).

This is a slightly shorter walk than usual, and so today I have been able to head out from home on a (very early) train - and despite some trouble due to the cancellation of trains between Oxford and Reading, I get into Oxford only slightly behind schedule.

From here I head over to what seems to be the main bus station (by Westgate shopping centre) - and it is not a long wait for the hourly X15 service to Witney - which is able to drop us at Newbridge.

Note here that it would also be possible to get on the earlier (non-Witney) version of the X15, but by the time you had walked from Southmoor to Newbridge you would have probably been overtaken by the Witney version anyway.

Despite not having to wait very long for our bus, this is hardly a quick journey - and it will take us about an hour and a half as we make our way through most of Abingdon (and numerous other places along the way).

But after exploring much of Oxford and Abingdon, we are able to get off opposite the very nicely done Rose Revived pub.

There are only so many rooms here, so this spot will not always be availability as a place to stay - but if there is space, I would suggest that you try and stay here - and it both looks very lovely, and has enough outside seating for this to be a perfect stopping point - even for a solo traveler.

But as it is, we are going to be heading the 'wrong' way down the river to Oxford today, staying over in Oxford, and returning by bus to this same point tomorrow - before continuing on to Lechlade on that following day.

And here I think the plan is simple - if you can stay here you should do, but if it is booked up then you can simply make use of the X15 bus to Witney (either at the start or end of your day).

Heading out from Newbridge

But having got going with this walk, our first observation is that area is very rural - and this isn't going to change all the way from here to Oxford.

And so here we get to enjoy a very quiet walk, as we head out from this historic bridge - with New Bridge and Radcot Bridge (to the east of here) being the two oldest surviving bridges that cross the River Thames.

The bridges themselves were built by monks (on the orders of King John of Robin Hood fame), to improve the transport routes between the wool towns and the Cotswolds farms - with a third bridge also having been built at Lechlade, but with that bridge having been replaced in the 19th century.

The bridge also has claim to being the site of a notable battle - with the Battle of Newbridge having been fought on the banks of the river here during the English Civil War.

But having made our way out from Newbridge, there isn't much more to report back on - except that there were plenty of swans, and plenty of farmland to admire.

Plenty of swans

And plenty of farmland

Eventually though, we make it round to Northmoor Lock - and although we are now beyond the main boating route (which used to run up the River Thames from London to Oxford, and then up the Oxford Canal to the Midlands), there were additional boating routes that made use of this stretch of the Thames.

And so whilst the navigable section of the River Thames comes to an end just beyond Lechlade (our destination at the end of tomorrow), the Thames & Severn Canal (built in 1789) provided an onward route to the Stroudwater Navigation, which then connected into the River Severn (either via the Stroudwater Navigation or via the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal). 

Additionally, the North Wilts Canal (which headed between Swindon and the Thames & Severn Canal just above Cricklade) providing a north-south link to the Wilts & Berks Canal - which separately ran from Abingdon to the Kennet & Avon Canal between Bradford-on-Avon and Devizes.

And so, whilst the Thames Navigation only runs as far as Lechlade, via these additional now abandoned canals (the Thames & Severn Canal, the North Wilts Canal and the Wilts & Berks Canal) it used to be possible for boats to go much further. 

All three of these disused canals are currently in the process of restoration - and at a later date I plan to walk what currently exists of the Thames & Severn Canal - to extend my walking beyond the end of the Thames Path.

But with this section of the River Thames having been (and still being) a navigable stretch of river - there remained a need for locks beyond Oxford - with Nordmoor Lock having been built in 1896, and with six more locks lying to the west of us (with the western-most lock being found just to the east of Lechlade).

Passing Northmoor Lock

Once beyond this lock, we once again find ourselves in rural countryside until Bablock Hythe - where a ferry used to operate from the 13th century until 1959 (operated via a rope or chain, which ran across the river, causing some level of obstacle to any boats heading up or downstream).

These days the older inn has been replaced by a more modern addition (built in the early 1990s), and in all honesty it's not quite as pretty as other other pubs that can be found along this stretch of river.

But here we must say goodbye to the side of the river - as unusually for the Thames Path (unless there is a diversion) - we must walk away from it's edge for an extended period of time.

And so here we follow the road heading to the west, turn to head south across sheep fields, and then only rejoin the side of the river about two miles later along the trail.

No river in sight

Safely back by it's side

By this point the river is starting to meander more dramatically - and although we can't actually see it, here we are passing by Farmoor Reservoir.

Farmoor Reservoir is fairly usual for this part of England, but would be considered fairly unusual in the north of England - and pumps water up from the Thames to a reservoir created via raised banks - and then releases excess water as required into the Thames at a later point.

This style of reservoir helps both with river level management and with the cleaning of water (since sediment will settle in the fairly static waters of the reservoir) - and is a popular site for sailing, windsurfing and paddle-boarding.

But we get no sight of it - and so our next point of interest comes at Pinkhill Lock - which dates back to 1791.

Passing Pinkhill Lock

From here we head up past Swinford - and we are now making our way around Wytham Hill (which sits to the east) - with our ultimate destination (Oxford) sitting on the far side of that hill.

Swinford Bridge

A closer view

Passing Eynsham Lock just beyond Swinford Bridge

This next section is probably the least exciting section of the walk today - as we make our way from Swinford to King's Weir (and the turn off for the Oxford Canal) - and although this stretch is over two miles long, there isn't all that much to report back on.

The turn off for the Oxford Canal

But from here we head southwards - and having passed under the A34 and on past Wolvercote, we get back to some nice walking (with this lasting all the way through to central Oxford).

One of the most notable features along this stretch of the river is Godstow Abbey - which was built in the 12th century, and which was a former house for Benedictine nuns.

Godstow Abbey

One it's most notable residents was the former mistress of Henry II (Rosamund Clifford), and the nunnery operated up until 1539.

It was then converted into a house - but fell into disrepair after sustaining damage during the English Civil War (and was ultimately plundered for stone).

But as we head beyond this spot, the main focus of attention is Port Meadow - which sits between us and the passage of the Oxford Canal.

From the Oxford Canal it is not possible to see very much of that meadow - but from here it is obvious why Oxford became so wealth, with so much of this area consisting of this flat and very fertile land.

View across to Port Meadow

View across to Wytham Hill

From here on, we are (for the first time today) walking among other people - and the path here is fairly busy as we make our way down to Medley Manor Farm, where we cross over the river to Fiddler's Island.

Crossing over the Thames

Looking out from the same spot

From here it is a short run (making room for an endless stream of joggers) to the turn off for Isis Lock - and the second join across to the Oxford Canal.

Here we cross over the bridge, and take on the final (and very short) stretch down to Osney Bridge - although we do in fact get diverted off before we reach the bridge, and so make our way down to the main road via the side streets.

The final stretch of the river through Oxford

All that remains now is to set off for our overnight accommodation - but we do get to pass one more point of interest, as we head under the now famous Botley Road Bridge.

In some ways this is just a normal railway underpass - but was recently made famous (or perhaps infamous) when it was revealed that £237m was spent making it possible for people to walk (or drive) under this stretch of railway.

And so we get to finish the day by walking under the most expensive underpass in the world (I haven't checked this fact, but I feel it must be true).

Total Distance: 13.9 miles (13.4 miles on the Thames Path)

Total Ascent: 135 feet (131 feet on the Thames Path)

Enjoyment Rating: ⭐⭐⭐ ★ ★ / 5

Click for the adjoining sections of the Thames Path from Abingdon to Oxford and from Newbridge to Lechlade.

Click for a connecting walk along the Oxford Canal from Oxford to Kidlington.

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 164 OS Landranger map - while there is also a Thames Path guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked, and other than in one section you just keep following the river