Cinder Trail - Scarborough to Whitby (★★★☆☆)

Having recently walked from Scarborough to Whitby along the Cleveland Way, I was interested in the differences between that walk and the Cinder Trail - along the old railway line - between the same towns.

This railway line took on quite a challenging terrain - and this makes it more interesting for walking than many of the other disused railway lines, which can often just head in a straight line - across flat countryside.

Opening in 1885, this challenging terrain made this a tricky line to operate - with it's steepest section having a 1 in 40 gradient, that trains often struggled to get up in wintery conditions. 

And so after usage dropped away, and as Beeching made it cool to rip up railways, the line was closed in 1965, and the tracks had been removed by 1972.

But although the train line has gone, it has remained as a trail for walkers, cyclists and horse-riders. For cyclists there are some sections that can only be used by mountain bikers, but for walkers the entirety of the trail remains very walk-able.

And today, we are here to find out how good a walk this is. In all honesty, it is unlikely to compete against the coastal route - which is one of my very favorite walks - but it is a walk I'm excited to do all the same.

A steam train heading to Ravenscar

Heading out from Scarborough train station, myfirst impressions are not amazing to be honest - because having made it past a supermarket, I have to head down between heavily graffitied sports pitches, where I meet up with the start of the Cinder Trail. 

As a starting point, it is slightly underwhelming - and doesn't do all that much to big up Scarborough in the eyes of anyone coming here to walk this trail.

As we start to head out along the trail, there are some slight improvements as we head across open parks - that offer up mown grassland on either side - before heading round to Newby, and then Scalby - where the path does finally improve. 

Scalby is clearly very popular with older people, many of whom are already out either walking or cycling - and here that downcast edge that clung to the opening section of this trail has vanished completely.

And heading out of Scalby, the walk truly begins - as we head out through pretty countryside - and here I think we have a section that can at least start to compete with the coastal trail.

Up ahead at Burniston, we have to observe a diversion, as they are doing work to improve the footpath ahead (UPDATE - this work has been completed and the path is is great shape now).

When we rejoin the Cinder Trail, we get back into an enjoyable run through pretty countryside, with views out to the houses, and across to the horses in their fields.

Walking between Burniston and Cloughton

After Cloughton, this pleasant walking continues for a while before I suffer another diversion, around a section where the path has subsided. And on this occasion the diversion was less enjoyable and featured a certain amount of road walking (UPDATE - this section has also been reopened and turns out to be lovely section that has a particular highlight as you pass the old station).

Rejoining the trail just past Cloughton Newlands, the next section is more forested - as the route heads past Hayburn Wyke - and what follows is a slightly uneventful section, heading round until views of the sea open up, on the way into Ravenscar.

This starts the best section of the trail - where we also meet up with the Cleveland Way route for the first time.

But before we meet up with that alternate trail, we can first explore the old station, before dropping down onto the road below - on our way through the village.

At the old station you can find an information board about the original plans for Ravenscar - which had been intended to be developed into a resort that would compete with Scarborough.

But with there being no beach here, and with it being a long descent from here to the seaside, the plans never really came to fruition. And in many ways it is better that this never became a busy seaside town, because it allows us walkers to enjoy its great views in relative peace.

Just after Ravenscar, and having passed the Visitor Centre, it is time for the Cleveland Way to disappear off, as it heads down the ridge to the coastline - whilst we continue to stay at this raised height and start to head inland, as we seek out a flatter route across the countryside.

Walking with the Cleveland Way for a bit

The view out towards Robin Hood's Bay

In many ways this walk is always going to be harshly judged against the coastal route that runs parallel, but viewed in isolation, this is one of the best disused railway routes I have walked along. And on this section, we get great views out from a higher vantage point than the coastal route - and the pictures can speak for themselves for the next stretch of walking.

Staying on this higher elevation

Looking back towards Ravenscar

Slightly closer view of Robin Hood's Bay

After these early views, we turn to heads inland, but then bend back to run closer to the the coast line again - and get closer to the coast as we start approaching the village of Fylingthorpe.

And from here it is a short run into Robin Hood's Bay where we pass by the old station, which is now the site of an enormous car park (it does at least give us some toilet facilities).

If you have never been before, here you may wish to head down into Robin Hood's Bay - or in any case just to get some food - but otherwise the path continues on from this higher elevation.

A photo I took when doing the coastal route through Robin Hood's Bay

After Robin Hood's Bay, the path holds that higher elevation as it passes along a route that sits well above the cliffs below, with great views out to sea from this vantage point.

This section is very pleasant to walk along - although it does feel a bit of a shame not to be walking along the lower cliffs, which are one of the best sections of this Yorkshire coastline. 

But having still enjoyed a stroll, looking out across the sea in the distance - at Hawsker Bottoms the path starts to head further inland - and here it passes through Hawsker, where the path crosses over the A171, before beginning the final stretch into Whitby.

This next stretch is not overly dramatic, but as time has gone by, I have gravitated to using this stretch on all my walks between Scarborough and Whitby - as this final section does offer a great route into Whitby.

And after completing the final miles before Whitby, we reach the Larpool Viaduct (and the section that makes this route so special).

If you are short like me, you will need to jump up and down a bit to look over the edge while crossing the Viaduct (which does cause a few laughs from the taller folk), but this is the real highlight of this stretch, and the main reason why I now usually come this way.

Since I am too short to take a decent photo over the edge, here is an old steam train crossing the viaduct

Having crossed over the river, we cross over the path of the Esk Valley Walk, as it heads into Whitby - and on through a moody cutting, which runs up into Whitby.

Here we reach the end of the Cinder Trail, which comes to a half a little way before the original terminus of this line (over at Whitby West Cliff Station).

That original station lay just to the south west of the school at West Cliff (down from Whitby Sands) and from there trains would have been able to continue on to Sandsend and Saltburn (and if you walk the Cleveland Way between Saltburn and Whitby, you will walk along some of the old railway on the stretch north of Sandsend).

Both these lines sit separate to the route of the existing railway - which runs from a lower elevation alongside the River Esk - but if we were to turn round and keep right, we would head down a cut that drops to meet up with the route of that existing railway.

And so from here I turn right and make my descent down through the streets of Whitby, coming out by the harbour, where I stop off to buy the obligatory fish and chips, which I eat whilst looking out at the boats. - before getting the train, and heading home for the day.

Whitby Harbor

Overall I much prefer the Cleveland Way route, but do plan to use parts of the Cinder Trail on future walks between Scarborough and Whitby. 

Coming out of Scarborough, the Cleveland Way route is a clear winner - but from Burniston to Ravenscar I'm happy to do either trail. Then since the coastal route from Ravenscar to Robin Hood's Bay is one of my favorite bits of walking, I don't think I will ever do the Cinder Trail again on that section.

After Robin Hood's Bay my preference is once again for the coast route - but I do plan on future walks to cut up at either Rain Dale or Hawksker Bottoms for the final run into Whitby (having by that time usually had enough of coastal walking for the day).

That said, if you are after a longer walk, but don't want to take on any steep hills - this walk does offer a taste of this countryside without all the climbs (instead there are only smooth increases and decreases in elevation).

Total Distance: 21.6 miles (ignoring diversions)

Total Ascent: 1,503 feet

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐ ★ ★ / 5

If you want to explore the area further, but are interested in a more inland route, this writeup details a walk along the Esk Valley Walk from Commondale to Whitby.

The Cleveland Way can also take you on further along the coast from Whitby to Saltburn or between Filey and Scarborough.

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 94 and 101 OS Landranger maps (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked and since you are mostly just following the railway is pretty straight-forward. Joining at Scarborough and Whitby can be harder (at Scarborough head for Sainsbury's, at Whitby head from the station to the roundabout of the A174, and then head on a tiny bit).