Cinder Trail - Scarborough to Whitby (★★★☆☆)

Having walked from Scarborough to Whitby along the Cleveland Way (following the coast) earlier in the month, I was interested in the differences between that walk and the Cinder Trail, along the old railway line between Scarborough and Whitby.

To add a bit of a history lesson, the Cinder Trail is one of those slightly remarkable lines in this area of the world - in that it took on quite challenging terrain. When you look at the Esk Valley line and the current heritage link down to Pickering, those were tricky routes through steep valleys - and while the Cinder Trail did not have those problems, it did have some fairly substantial elevation changes to overcome.

The line itself opened in 1885, but was always a tricky line to operate - in part due to the 1 in 40 gradients on its steepest section, which caused trains problems in winter conditions. Then, with dropping usage as everyone in the 1960s became too cool to go by train, the line was suggested for closure in the Beeching Report (famous for killing off numerous railway lines - that are in many cases only just recently being re-opened) - and the line closed in 1965.

In 1968, the line started to be lifted, and by 1972 all of the track had been removed. But although the train line has gone, it has become a trail for walkers, cyclists and horse-riders. Although for walkers there are many sections where it is hard not to feel that the route is slightly secondary to the Cleveland Way route, along the coast, this does provide a very flat route along this countryside. 

So today, we are here to find out what potential lies in this alternate route, between these two seaside towns.

Steam train heading to Ravenscar

The first impressions are not amazing to be honest - because having stepped off the train, my first task is to head round to Sainsbury's and then past the fairly heavily graffitied sports pitches, to begin my journey down the Cinder Trail. It is a slightly underwhelming start, and doesn't do all that much to pump up opinions of Scarborough for those visiting to walk this trail.

From here it heads through some open parks that offer up mown grassland on either side - and then round to Newby, and then Scalby - where the path does start to improve. Here in Scalby there are a lot of older folk around, either walking or on bikes, and in general Scalby seems to have a nice vibe to it at a pleasant place to spend some time.

Heading out of Scalby, the walk truly begins - and now, as you exit Scalby, you are heading out through pretty countryside.

Up ahead at Burniston, I have to divert off through the village as they are doing work to improve the footpath ahead (UPDATE - on a later walk this was done and the path is much better). Re-joining not too much further along, I'm back on the trail and continuing to enjoy a section with views of the villages, and out across to look at the horses in their fields.

Walking between Burniston and Cloughton

After Cloughton, there is a pleasant walk onwards, but on my visit I again got diverted, shortly after Cloughton, to navigate around a section where the path had subsided. This involved a bit of road walking, and since this diversion is not permanent, I will simply gloss over this and pretend that the diversion never happened (UPDATE - this section can now be walked, and is an enjoyable section to walk).

Rejoining the trail just past Cloughton Newlands, the next section is more forested, as the route heads past Hayburn Wyke - and then there is a slightly uneventful section heading round, until views of the sea open up, on the way into Ravenscar.

At Ravenscar, you can explore the old station, and then it is time to drop down onto the road to head through, and then out on the other side of this little village - with there being toilets and a cafe at Ravenscar, alongside the trail.

At the station there is an information board, which tells you more about the original plans for Ravenscar. 

The vision was for Ravenscar to become another coastal resort, but the plan never quite came about - and there is perhaps a logic to this, because while the views are amazing from here - there isn't really any beach, and it is a long walk down and back up to reach the coast from here.

It is a great spot - however - and probably would work better these days as a bit of a resort where everyone stays largely on-site, and simply enjoys the views. But in many ways it is better that this never became a busy seaside town, because it allows walkers to enjoy its great views in relative quiet.

For this section, the Cleveland Way and the Cinder Trail are following the same path, but just after Ravenscar, it is time for the Cleveland Way to drop down to the coastline - whilst the Cinder Trail stays high, in order to maintain a relatively flat route.

Walking with the Cleveland Way for a bit

The view out towards Robin Hood's Bay

This is definitely the pretty section of the trail, and here I can let the pictures speak for themselves really for the next stretch of walking.

Now following the Cinder Trail away from the Cleveland Way

Looking back towards Ravenscar

Slightly closer view of Robin Hood's Bay

After the early views, the path heads inland, but then comes back closer to the the coast line again, as it passes Boggle Hole - and then there is a fairly long walk - with views coming and going - until the path comes in to Robin Hood's Bay at the top of the village.

After Robin Hood's Bay, the path is more consistent, as it follows around, sat above the cliffs, with views out to sea. This section is very pleasant to walk along - but with the sea being further out to the distance, not so good for taking photos (hence why the photos are weighted towards the Ravenscar stretch on this writeup). Still though, this is enjoyable scenery to sit within along this section (the cliff walk down below is perhaps better though).

But having enjoyed a stroll looking out across the sea in the distance, at Hawsker Bottoms the path starts to head further inland - and here it passes through Hawsker, where the path crosses over the A171, before beginning the final stretch into Whitby.

This next stretch is not overly dramatic, but as time has gone by, I have gravitated to using this stretch on all my walks between Scarborough and Whitby - and after a completing the final miles before Whitby, you reach the Larpool Viaduct, which the path crosses over.

If you are short like me, you will need to jump up and down a bit to look over the edge, but this is the real highlight of this stretch all the same and the main reason why I usually come this way.

Since I can barely see over the edge to take a good photo, here is an old steam train crossing the viaduct

From here the old train line heads on through Whitby, and then when this comes to a halt at the end of the Cinder Trail, I head through town towards the station, which lies off the Cinder Trail route. The Whitby-Scarborough trains themselves would have stopped at Whitby West Cliff Station (not the current station) and from here the line would have journeyed on to Sandsend, and then round to Saltburn (if you walk the Cleveland Way to Saltburn from Whitby you initially walk on the old railway, and follow bits of it further along that trail).

Stopping off the for the obligatory picture of Whitby harbor, there is time to enjoy some fish and chips, before getting the train - and heading home for the day.

Whitby Harbor

Overall I have to be honest and say I much prefer the Cleveland Way route. That said, I do normally walk Scarborough to Whitby at least once a year - and while doing so I normally use the Cleveland Way round to Clock Case Nab, and then head up on a permissive path to join the Cinder Trail not far before Hawsker Bottoms, on the higher route to Whitby. This is partly because the cliff route along here is getting pretty crumbly, partly because it is very busy and partly because I don't like the holiday parks on that section.

Overall though, the Cleveland Way route is better, but this route is still good and without that better trail alongside, would be a route I would walk more often. From Robin Hood's Bay, a route I would recommend - however - is to walk out on the Cinder Trail to Ravenscar and then back along the Cleveland Way. This offers a nice mix of a flat trail and then a bumpy route along the coastline.

You can similarly mix up the two trains on the north side, with an out and back loop. Doing an out and back loop where you do each of the two options is really where the Cinder Trail most has its value in my mind.

Enjoyment Rating : ⭐⭐⭐ ★ ★ / 5

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 94 and 101 OS Landranger maps (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked and since you are mostly just following the railway is pretty straight-forward. Joining at Scarborough and Whitby can be harder (at Scarborough head for Sainsbury's, at Whitby head from the station to the roundabout of the A174, and then head on a tiny bit).