Monsal Trail - Grindleford to Buxton (★★★★★)

Today the plan is to walk the Monsal Trail to see if it is indeed worth all the hype.

Access to the trail by public transport requires a bit of logistical planning - but in the end I came up with a plan to start at Gindleford, head down to Chatsworth House, and then cut along to Bakewell - where I could join the Monsal Trail (although it properly starts a bit before Bakewell). 

From here I can simply follow that trail - and then continue on to Buxton. And for this final stretch into Buxton, I plan to use the Midshires Way - and I will use this route into Buxton again when I walk the High Peak Trail.

But for now our first task is to head by train to Grindelford - and then from here we drop down to meet up with the Derwent Valley Heritage Trail. 

And here we find a pretty, but still fairly wet, part of the world - where the people are friendly, and where everyone says hello on our way by.

Heading out along the Derwent Valley Heritage Trail

I have walked this route before, and already given it a full write-up, so I will largely gloss over this section of the walk - but it is an enjoyable walk round to Chatsworth House, as we follow the River Derwent.

Chatsworth House

It is here at Chatsworth House that the story really begins - and whilst we are still some distance from the the start of the Monsal Trail, this house played a very crucial role in the construction of the railway that the Monsal Trail follows.

That railway route was completed in 1863, and was built by Midlands Railway to give them a route between Manchester and London - with those being the days when rival railway companies competed against each other to secure routes between major cities.

The route taken by this railway was not a particularly easy one, and Midland Railway were forced into taking this route by the Duke of Devonshire, who didn't want the railway to pass through his land. And this was an issue, because he not only owned Chatsworth House, but also an extensive tranche of land across this area.

In the end the Duke did actually change his mind, and offered to let the railway pass through his land (once he had realised the value the railway could bring) - but fortunately for us, by then it was too late to change the route. 

And in the end the Duke had to settle for getting Hassop railway station built at the nearest point of the railway to Chatsworth House.

But today, we are now going to turn offthe Derwent Valley Heritage Trail, and follow a short stretch of footpath that runs round from Chatsworth House to Edensor.

The view back heading to Edensor

Arriving at Edensor

Edensor is a bit of an interesting village, and much of it is privately owned by the Cavendish family - and so is in effect an extension of Chatsworth Estate (which the Cavendish family also own).

The history of the modern village dates back to 1762, when the 4th Duke of Devonshire (at the time owner of the estate) arranged for the demolition of the homes that then stood in the village - as they were spoiling his view.

By the 1800s a new road was built, and the Duke had also removed the rest of the village.

But maybe the Duke got lonely - because he later got Sir Joseph Paxton (designer of Crystal Palace exhibition) to design a new improved village - and by 1870 a new village was in place, and was a 'pretty place of villa-cottages', plus a post office, an inn and a church.

And Edensor became a 'model village', with strict rules in place to maintain it's appearance. And what results feels to be more an open air museum than a town where real people might live.

Heading up the road

Looking back through the village

Slightly higher up

From here our path follows the road up, with this road turning into a farm track - and this will take us on a fairly hefty climb up onto the higher ground above.

Looking forward on this track

Looking back from higher up

Eventually the track turns into a very minor road, and this is followed round to a footpath, that heads down through a small forest, that in turn sits above Bakewell - and then we continue on into the town itself.

Here we find ourselves passing over the top of the Monsal Trail, and then turn right to head round to the old train station.

Old railway route

Here we are essentially at the start of the Monsal Trail (although strictly speaking not quite), but not at the start of the old railway route - which used to come up from Matlock, and then continue on to meet back up with the rest of the rail network either at or near Buxton.

These days Matock is the end of the line for the modern train network, whilst a heritage line continues to run between Rowsley and Matlock.

Blackwell is therefore the first station along the line that is no longer in use, but the building has been preserved, and was built to a grand design on the request of the Duke of Rutland - over whose land the line passes.

Map of the Monsal Trail

From here we have a run over fairly open countryside - and then in the second half of the trail we will pass through more dramatic countryside characterised by limestone.

But for now we can enjoy a walk out along a very busy stretch of path, heading out beyond Bakewell.

Heading out from Bakewell

Here the trail is very good - and it is a cycling trail with a very good surface for those on two-wheels.

This means that there are a lot of bikes and pushchairs, among the throng of walkers - with things getting busier again as we pass Hassop station (the one built for the benefit of the owner of Chatsworth House).

In general this station saw little use, as it sits in a fairly sparsely populated area - but these days it is making up for it, as it now has a busy cafe (which also has cycle hire facilities).

From here we have a long straight run heading west, before we arrive at Headstone Tunnel - which is the longest tunnel along this line at 533 yards - and thanks to the very well done restoration of this line, you can walk (or cycle) through it.

Walking through Headstone Tunnel

Although the Monsal Trail opened for walkers in 1981, it was only in 2011 that this tunnel was restored and re-opened for use - and upon exiting the tunnel we head straight out onto Headstone Viaduct.

This Viaduct is 300 yards long with five long arches - and takes us over a deep valley (the River Wye), as we star to enter the more rugged section of the trail.

View to the right

View to the left

From here we soon arrive at the former site of Monsal Dale train station (not much of this one remains today) - but in any case we are no in daylight for too long, because we soon draw level with Cressbrook - and get ready to head through Cressbrook Tunnel.

Site of Cressbrook Mill

Cressbrook Tunnel

Headstone Tunnel was really more a cutting than a real tunnel - and was built to appease the Duke of Rutland (who didn't want his view spoiled).

But Cressbrook Tunnel is a different story, and tunnels deep through rock that rises up above the River Wye.

This tunnel runs for 471 yards - and here the path is cutting through limestone.

Back underground

Coming out into a cutting

Once out the tunnel, there is a short cutting - and then it is time to head into Litton Tunnel, which runs under a similar block of limestone.

View from the cutting

Into Litton Tunnel

Back underground

One of the nice things about these tunnels is that they kept a consistent design throughout each of them - and so each of the photos could easily be interchanged for another.

And inside the tunnels - and when you have a cyclist coming the other way - the sound of their tyres on the ground echos in such a way, that you could be convinced that there is indeed a train coming down the line.

But we are soon once again back out into the open air, and passing Litton Mill.

I don't know if that is the Litton Mill or just a mill in Litton

From here we will be tunnel free for a bit - and in many ways this is very welcom,- as it means that we get to enjoy both the initial limestone cuttings, and then the views out to the Wye Valley (with the railway still tracking along the route of the River Wye).

Limestone cuttings

View across the Wye Valley

A baby cutting

Eventually though it is time to once again do some tunneling - heading through Chee Dale Tunnel.

Back underground

Leaving Chee Dale Tunnel and approach it's baby brother

From here, our final section along the Wye Valley features limestone cliffs for much of our journey through to the end of the trail.

Limestone cliffs

Another baby tunnel

More cliffs

Even more cliffs (looking back)

And a cutting

And then a little way on the Monsal Trail eventually comes to an unceremonious halt - but here we can continue to walk along the Wye Valley, by dropping down to the riverside.

Here the railway continues to pass by overhead, although this is now an active railway that still runs down from the stone quarries - to be found to the north (and slightly to the east).

Dropping off the railway

Into the Wye Valley

Next we go back under the railway

On the far side

Under again

And on (looking back I think here)

Although this runs beyond the end of the Monsal Trail, this section is still very pretty - and whilst the Monsal Trail is probably best done at this time of year (when you can see out through the trees), this section is probably at it's best in summer or autumn.

But at a car park this section comes to a halt, and from here we take a path that heads on around an active quarry, before there is a split in the path.

Here I intended to continue on up Deep Dale, but that path no longer exists - as work is being done in the area - and so instead the path heads up onto the higher ground, before we can join up with the Midshires Way.

View of the quarry from higher ground

Once on the Midshires Way, we head across the fields to Deep Dale - and then head down, and back up, the valley sides

Deep Dale from the far side

Deep Dale from slightly higher up

From here we stick with the Midshires Way, heading across fields that are in general pretty dry underfoot - before very late in the day Buxton comes into view.

Buxton

From here we can head down the hill, under the original route of the railway, and into Buxton to finish for the day.

Some cows

Under the railway (now serving the quarry, but formerly part of the line to Matlock)

There are easier ways than this to explore the Monsal Trail - for starters it is lined with car parks - but in many ways it is nice to have spanned most of the length of the original railway (especially having also walked the section on down through Rowsey and Matlock to Derby, whilst following the Derwent Valley Heritage Tail). 

But the Monsal Trail is a must-do walk - and I'm pleased to have got round to doing it.

Total Distance: 21.8 miles (Monsal Trail is only 8.5 miles long in total and is flat)

Total Ascent: 3,730 feet (I think the ascent is overstated due to viaducts and tunnels confusing the route planner)

Enjoyment Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5

Click for a writeup of walks along the Derwent Heritage Trail from Edale to Matlock and Matlock to Derby.

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 119 OS Landranger map (links redirect to Amazon). The Monsal Trail itself is incredibly easy to follow, the other sections are more complex and definitely need a map