Pennine Bridleway - Kirkby Stephen to Ribblehead

The Pennine Bridleway is a trail I have bumped into a few time on other walks - but today is the first time I'm heading out specifically to walk a section of this trail.

The last of this trail was only completed in 2012, and it owes a lot to a literal Lady by the name of Mary Towneley - who launched the idea of a Pennine Bridleway (and highlighted the general need for improved bridleways) back in 1986, when she rode 250 miles from Corbridge to Ashbourne, along with two friends.

The first part of the trail, the Mary Towneley Loop - named after Mary Towneley, who had herself died the year before - opened in 2002, with the final section following in 2012. 

The route itself runs from just below Kirkby Stephen, to just outside of Wirksworth (south of Matlock) - and makes use of both old lanes, pack horse routes, drover's roads and part of the High Peak Trail (a disused railway line).

An extension up beyond Kirkby Stephen was approved back in 2002, but has never been funded and for now it is a trail that only extends as far north as Kirkby Stephen (unlike the Pennine Way which heads on up to Kirk Yetholm in Scotland).

From what I have seen of this trail so far, it has one big advantage - which is that it uses some very good paths - offering the promise of a slightly less muddy walking experience during wetter weather.

And so today the plan is to walk a section of that trail - on this occasion joined by a friend (who is foolish enough to be willing to head out into some fairly dismal weather) - with Kirkby Stephen train station being the starting point of this walk.

This starting point is some distance from the official starting point of the bridleway, but from the train station we can follow the path of the River Eden, and then pick up the Pennine Bridleway about three miles into it's official route.

First though, we arrive at Kirkby Stephen train station - and from here there is a walking/cycling trail that connects the station to the village (a mile or so away).

The path to the village

Down this path we eventually reach a crossroads (by Halfpenny House) - and whilst a left turn here will take us on into the village, today we will turn right - and head on down towards Wharton Hall.

From here we join up with the route of the Pennine Journey, along a surprisingly good path (it was not as wet underfoot as I had feared it might be), as we follow the River Eden on down towards the hill that is Birkett Common ahead.

Following the River Eden with the hill of Birkett Common ahead

Soon we the remains of Lammerside Castle - but as with many of the 'castles' in this area, these are really just fortified manor houses, and not the sort of castles you might find in Wales. 

These would each be owned by one of the more important families in the area - and their fortifications would provide some level of defence whenever there was a raid - with the English typically raiding as far north as Edinburgh, and with the Scottish raiding down as far as Yorkshire.

The ruins themselves date back to the 12th or 13th century - but with the Wharton family moving from this smaller fortified house to a larger fortified manor house at Wharton Hall in the 15th century (slightly further back along our walk).

That larger fortified house at Wharton Hall is now part of the more modern farm buildings - and these days is surrounded by agricultural sheds and farm buildings.

Wharton Hall - Source: John Illingworth / Wharton Hall / 

CC BY-SA 2.0

But whilst the hall is now just an old ruin on a farm, it was once a building of reasonable importance - and was first notable for being besieged during the Catholic revolts in 1536 (when Henry VII's decision to break with the Catholic Church triggered a popular revolt).

Eight years later the manor was extended and further fortified - and in 1568 it was used as one of the overnight stops, when Mary Queen of Scots was transferred from Carlisle Castle to Bolton Castle.

This came at a time when Mary had been replaced as Queen of the Scots by her son James VI (later to also become King James I of England), and had fled to England seeking the support of her half sister Elizabeth I.

Having fled into England, Mary was initially kept in protective custody in Carlisle, before being moved down to Bolton Castle (in an attempt to move her away from the Scottish border) - with Wharton Hall being the final overnight stop, before she reached Bolton Castle on the following day. 

The fortifications of the hall were also sufficient for it to also be used at an overnight stop by then King James I of England (also King James VI of Scotland), on his way between Scotland and England in 1617.

But from the 16th century the Wharton family had moved to Healaugh Priory - and over time the hall fell into ruin, before being partly restored in 1785, and again in the 20th century.

But today these now abandoned halls have lost a lot of their original grandeur - and leaving behind Lammerside Castle, we follow the River Eden round, as it briefly turns to the east, before turning to head southwards once again.

Briefly heading east

Back heading south

Along this stretch the route passes by another fortified manor - this time by the name of Pendragon Castle - which sits on the far side of the river.

The legend is that this castle was built by Uther Pendragon - father of King Arthur - but this claim is somewhat weakened by the fact that the castle was built in the 12th century (whilst King Arthur belonged to the late-5th or early-6th centuries).

Instead the castle's biggest claim to fame is that one of it's owners was one of the four knights that killed Thomas Becket - but it can also point at the fact that it was attacked by raiding Scots in 1342 and 1541 as a bit of further historical activity.

But after the attack in 1541 the castle remained uninhabited, and is a ruin today.

Pendragon Castle as of 1740

From here, we next head through a fairly wet and boggy section, before finally meeting up with the Pennine Bridleway for the first time, as it crosses the B6259.

Our bridge across the river

From the far side of the river

From here we have a bit of a climb up part way up the ridge on the eastern side of the river - from which we get great views out over the valley below, and also across to the route of the Settle-Carlisle railway (which we are following throughout the day).

Our route up

View out from low on the climb (with a train going by)

Still going up the ridge

The Water Cut at the top of the climb

Looking back

At the top of the climb we find a sculpture called the Water Cut, which is one of ten sculptures collectively called the Eden Benchmarks. This one is made of Salterwath Limestone, and is supposed to represent a split millstone (showing off the power of the river).

It is also a decent seat, and that is the most important thing today - as a strong wind has been driving intermittent rain and hail towards us on this climb, and so it is nice to be able to sit out of the wind.

Up on the ridge the wind remains a very notable feature of this walk, as we continue to remain at this mid-point on the ridge - until it becomes time to drop down off the ridge into Moorcock, near Garsdale Head.

Following the ridge round

One of the streams dropping off the hills

Dropping down of the ridge (with a viaduct ahead)

Once back down into the valley, there is the chance to enjoy the greenery around the River Eden once again, before we stop off at The Moorcock (formerly an inn but now a tea room mostly serving walkers and cyclists) for a spot of food (in my case Fruit Cake and Sausages in a Bun).

This proves to be a great stopping point - and with another climb coming up once we get past Garsdale train station, a bit of extra food is hard to turn down.

Reaching the river again

Crossing over the river

The river itself

Refueled, it is time to head on - and from here the path heads over to the railway, and then runs alongside Dandrymire Viaduct, before heading through one of the arches, and out on the far side.

Dandrymire Viaduct

On the other side of the railway

Originally the plan was for this section of railway to be served by an embankment rather than a viaduct - but during construction a bog swallowed all the material poured into it (250,000 cubic yards of material in total) - and so the decision was made to use a Viaduct along this stretch.

But leaving this viaduct behind, we soon pass Garsdale train station, and from here the trail heads up onto the next ridge, along a very minor road - and here we now have not just wind to deal with, but a fair bit of rain, hail and snow to deal with as well.

At the top of the climb

Once at the top though, the road levels out - and now the trail follows a flat route, running along the edge of the ridge - with views out towards Cowgill and Dentdale.

View towards Cowgill and Dentdale

Soon, though, our time on the road comes to and end - and the trail continues along a track - whilst the road heads on down to Dent train station (although it is called Dent station it is near Cowgill village, and not near Dent village).

Following the ridge round

Soon the path starts turning to the east, to go around a deep cut created by Artengill Beck. And here we track along the northern edge of this valley, until we reach a point where it is a far smaller valley to cross - and where we can cross the beck, and continue on past Wold Fell.

Heading east along the northern edge of the new valley

Looking down towards Dent Viaduct with Whernside behind

From here we are able to look down at Dent Viaduct - and as with Dandrymire Viaduct, this viaduct was made harder to build by the very wet conditions

Behind the viaduct we can see Whernside, and intermittently peaking it's head over the other hills is Ingleborough (to the left of Whernside).

At Wold Fell, the railway turns to head south west (and tunneling under Blea Moor), before then bending round on the far side of Blea Moor, until it has turned to heads south east at Ribblehead.

But having made it past Wold Fell, the Pennine Bridleway instead heads south - and then heads east to Grove Head - before then heading south west, and on down between Ribblehead and Horton-in-Ribblesdale.

Today, though, we want to head more directly to Ribblehead - and so when the Pennine Bridleway turns left at a minor road (to head east towards Grove Head), we turn right, and cut across to the route of the Dales Way. 

From here it is about three miles to Ribblehead, with Pen-y-Ghent now becoming more prominent in the skyline - but with paths starting to run out, the final stretch is spent following the B6255.

Today I have been walking with a friend, and the total amount of climbing today has taken it's toll on them (apparently other people don't spend half their life in the hills walking), so by this point we have slowed to a bit of a crawl - but here they are saved from an arduous final mile, when a local takes pity, and offers us a lift on to Ribblehead.

At The Station Inn (now owned by the same people as the Tan Hill Inn), a bit of food results in a miraculous recovery, whilst around us people start to arrive back from their attempts to complete the Yorkshire Three Peaks. And here there is the option of some overnight accommodation for those wanting to continue on.

But before long, it is time to complete the short walk to the train station - which takes us back to Kirkby Stephen, and on for a bit more food at the local Chinese restaurant, and then on home.

Total Distance: 23.0 miles (12.8 miles on the Pennine Bridleway) 

Total Ascent: 2,887 feet (2,051 feet on the Pennine Bridleway)

Enjoyment Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5

Click for a writeup of a connecting walk from Ribblehead to Settle along the Dales High Way.

Click for a writeup of a connecting walk from Dent to Horton-in-Ribblesdale via Ribblehead Viaduct.

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 91 and 98 OS Landranger maps - while there is also a Pennine Bridleway guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.