King Charles Coast Path - South Gare to Saltburn (★★★★☆)

Today we are setting out to do what is a far more local walk for me - and for me this is a bit of a relief, as there has been quite a bit of traveling involved around my walks recently.

Although the title says this is a walk from South Gare to Saltburn, we will actually start at Redcar, then walk along the coast to South Gare, before turning round and heading back past Redcar until we reach Saltburn. And here I just figured it was less confusing to name this 'South Gare to Saltburn' rather than 'Redcar to Saltburn (via South Gare)'.

Following (via the beach) the King Charles Coast Path to Warrenby

For the first part of our walk, our ultimate destination is South Gare (after which we will turn back and head to Saltburn) - but although we are for now generally following the route of the King Charles Coast Path, this trail does not actually follow the coast as far as South Gare. And it is the Teesdale Way that we will be (sort of) following for the final stretch of the walk out to South Gare.

Here it is worth noting that whilst we are technically following both routes, for most of this walk we will not actually be on the official route of either trail - as we will spend most of our time down on the beach, rather than the official path (which always runs along a route that is well above the high tide mark).

But if you are doing walking along the King Charles Coast Path, please don't feel like you have to stick to the official path - the beach is very much there to be walked on, and the walking along the beach is always far more enjoyable (particularly as you get to see lots of dogs playing in the water).

But with this preamble over, we can step off the train at Redcar Central, head down to the seafront, and then immediately drop down onto the beach.

Once on the beach we are turning left, and for now heading east - as we make our way past the least offshore 'Offshore Wind Farm' in the country.

Teesside Offshore Wind Farm

Rumour has it that the foundations of this wind farm were originally built using a bucket and spade at low tide. 

And by modern standards this is quite a small wind farm - with this wind farm having a maximum capacity of 62MW - whilst the newer wind farm going in (much further off the coast of Teesside) will have a much larger maximum capacity of 3,600MW (across all three planned phases).

But whilst this is a diddy little thing that we are looking at, it probably does deserve as much of a spot in our industrial heritage as many of the other sites we come across during our travels.

Because whilst the first offshore wind farm went into operation in Denmark in 1991, by 2008 the UK had become the world leader in offshore wind power - and retained this lead until 2021 (when China had finally got it's boots on, and properly laced up).

This was in part due to a desire for the UK to be world leading in something (with the hopes being that renewable industries could be a boost for areas such as Teesside) - but it was also due to the fact that Cotswolds lot spat out their tea every time they saw wind farm blades spinning (those blades can be quite triggering).

And whilst the whole point of the wind farms being offshore was so that people wouldn't necessarily have to look at them - this offshore wind farm was nevertheless a long way away from the Cotswolds - and so those visual considerations really didn't matter anyway.

The end result was some very expensive power - and for reference, the newer wind farm will be paid 77% less for each unit of power it generates. And such is progress in the technological world.

We will be looking at this wind farm for most of our walk, but we can now take our attention elsewhere - and focus on our trip up the coast - where at some point I cannot exactly identify, we leave behind the unofficial beach route of the King Charles Coast Path, and start the unofficial beach route of the Teesdale Way.

Following (via the beach) the Teesdale Way to South Gare

The dunes

Looking back

Here the landscape does give off a sense of deja vu - for whilst this stretch of coastline is usually split at the River Tees (probably because the route of the King Charles Coast Path round Middlesbrough is so unbearably awful) - what we are looking at could easily be confused with stretches of the Northumberland Coast.

And there is a fairly cohesive stretch of coast, that runs from Berwick-Upon-Tweed down to Saltburn - after which you then get the more dramatic cliffs of the Yorkshire Coast. 

With this stretch of beach (Coatham Sands), the stretch at Druridge Bay (below Amble), and the stretch between Blyth and Seaton Sluice, all being remarkably similar in character.

But after quite a long trek along this very familiar stretch of beach, I make the call to turn off - and to rejoin with the actual route of the Teesdale Way, near Bran Sands.

Heading across the dunes to the official trail

Following the actual route of the Teesdale Way to South Gare

In time our little track takes us across to a road - and it is here that we both join up with the Teesdale Way, and get our first views out across the River Tees.

But here it is worth noting that this is also the first point that the Teesdale Way gazes out upon the River Tees, since leaving it behind at Middlesbrough (unless I am wrong, as I have not actually walked it - but I can't see on the map where such a view would be possible).

The fishing boats, and the River Tees (I think this harbour is called Paddy's Hole)

Where we are stood now is reclaimed land - and previously Coatham Sands (the beach we were on) and Bran Sands (the mud flats in our current view) combined. But the addition of South Gare helped to provide a bit of safety to the boats seeking harbour in this estuary.

And this wasn't a recent development - with construction of South Gare beginning in 1859 - and with it being built up using a mix of blast furnace slag and cement. With the breakwater formally opening in 1888.

The current road was once a temporarily railway line (that was used to shift material down to the site) - and harbours have been built into the breakwater - with these continuing to be used by fishing boats today (by modern standards these are very small, so I doubt many of these are commercial boats).

And as we head along South Gare, we soon get some better views out towards the heavy industry that dominates the mouth of the Tees.

Looking across to the heavy industry

On the right of this photo we have both Hartlepool Nuclear Power Station and the nearby offshore wind installation boats (which are docked at Able Seaton Port) - whilst on the left we have Teesside oil terminal.

Of these sights, the largest is the oil terminal - which covers about 285 acres - and it was built in 1975 to process, store, and export oil extracted off the North Sea.

And if this view across to both the power station and the oil terminal excites you, then I have good news - for the King Charles Coast Path follows the River Tees on the far side down to North Gare, on past the power station, and then on past the oil terminal.  

As if that wasn't enough - it then meets up with the Teesdale Way, and both head through the old steel works, to meet up with our route near Warrenby.

That said, if this news doesn't excite you, then you are not alone - and I remain unconvinced that such sections of path will be anything other than a complete waste of my time.

And so we need not dwell any more upon the mouth of the Tees - for having made it as far as we can go along South Gare - we can head round to focus on the side that looks back towards Redcar.

Looking back at our old friend, the wind farm

Heading back to Warrenby

Here we can drop down onto some worn paths through the dunes - and these will allow us to complete a loop around South Gare - after which we will have no choice but to retrace our steps until we reach Redcar.

Looking out towards South Gare Lighthouse (apologies for the quality on the zoom)

Since we are retracing our steps here, I won't make further comment on this section - but since we are now heading in a new direction, I can still put up a few more photographs of our trip back towards Redcar.

Passing our old friend once more

And walking across a very empty beach

Towards a now visible Redcar

Following the King Charles Coast Path to Saltburn

Having reached Redcar for the second time today, we can perhaps stop and have a bit of a chat about this seaside town.

For me this is probably the most interesting town on Teesside (and it is just about part of Teesside, despite not actually being beside the River Tees). 

The town itself originated as a fishing hamlet - and then it saw success as a seaside destination - with the major attraction being this spectacular stretch of beach.

A racecourse was added to the town in 1875, a new pier was added around the same time, and in 1907 pavilion ballroom was added to the pier.

That pier no longer stands today, having been deliberately broken up in 1940 to prevent it's use during an enemy invasion - and whilst Saltburn pier (which suffered a similar fate) was rebuilt, this pier was not.

When the steelworks opened in 1917 (and then expanded in the 1940s), this became a major source of employment for the town - but the town has never really recovered from the decline in industrial jobs in this area.

For all this though, it retains the excellent location that made it a destination in Victorian times - and stood here on the beach, it is hard to feel anything other than that this should be an excellent place to live.

For me personally, I have a bit of experience here - for I bucked the trend when I came up to the North East for work (although to the somewhat posher town of Yarm). But I credit that move up north, with my currently being stood on a beach on a Monday morning (and not being imprisoned inside some nasty office - awaiting the bell at 5pm).

At the time everyone did think I was a bit of an idiot - and whilst I may be overly influenced by my own experiences here - I do wonder if that belief that you have to move away to succeed, is 99% of the problem.

But from here we make our way past Redcar, without seeing very much of it - but as we round the corner at Redcar, the hills beyond Saltburn every so slowly start to inch into view.

A bit of a bump in the distance, and some rocks underneath

Here we are standing on Redcar Mudstone Formation -  which is a very fancy way of saying that we are standing on some rocks.

No one ever seems to be able to explain geology in a way that I can understand it (to me the word Jurassic is usually followed by the word Park, and is something you watch on TV, because it involves dinosaurs). 

But to me these rocks (whatever they are) do provide a nice transition, as we continue to head towards the hills beyond Saltburn.

Small rocks in front, bigger rocks in the distance behind

Fom here we continue to make our way on up the beach - passing (but once again not seeing very much of) Marske-by-the-Sea.

Of Marske we really only see one sight - which is the very attractive looking Cliff House (sorry no photo) - which whilst now a retirement home, was built in 1844, as the summer residence of one of the early railway pioneers - Joseph Pease.

But otherwise, we are now focused on completing that run into Saltburn - and both upon admiring the wonderful cliffs that lie ahead, and the many dogs now playing around us (if you have a dog and live near this coast, this is where you dog wants to be!).

Closing in now

Upon reaching the area around Saltburn, the beach does gets a lot busier - and where Redcar is still struggling, Saltburn seems to be absolutely thriving.

But we have been here before twice already on these walks, and so I will skip the usual chat about the town - and instead we head up the steps onto the cliffs above, where we find the core of this former Victorian seaside town.

Heading up the steps

Looking out from the top

We have arrived here at a very good time for our ownward train home - and so we now cut across to the station (passing a huge number of houses being refurbished) - and since I live on this train line, it is a very easy trip home.

And so we end a wonderful day, along some lovely (and very empty) sandy beaches - and how many times do you get to combine a trip to the beach, with a view out towards an oil terminal and a nuclear power station.

Total Distance: 11.8 miles (5.8 miles of the King Charles Coast Path on the beach)

Total Ascent: 331 feet (66 feet of the King Charles Coast Path on the beach)

Enjoyment Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ ★ / 5

Click for the adjoining section of the King Charles Coast Path (also the Cleveland Way) from Whitby to Saltburn.

Click for a connecting walk along the Cleveland Way from Kildale to Saltburn.

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 93 and 94 OS Landranger maps - while there is also a Yorkshire Coast guidebook (Redcar to Humber Estuary) which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). On the beach route there are no waymarks, but so long as you don't go into the sea you will be fine