South Downs Way

OVERVIEW

Whilst there are trails that feature more dramatic geographic - and in that sense offer a more magnificent walk - there is something about very special about the South Downs Way, that makes it one of the best walking trails in England.

And indeed for those who are international visitors and after a taste of quintessential English countryside - this is probably the best trail on offer to you.

The trail itself features a lot of hills, which whilst individually not that tall, do amount to a fairly substantial amount of climbing in combination. 

But the main appeal of the trail is it's scenery - with wide open expanses of rolling grassland, broken up by rolling ridges and historical features.

It is a great trail, and one that should be on the must-do list - and whilst usually walked west to east, people often return to walk both ways.

PRACTICALITIES

The ease of walking the trail changes quite a bit from east to west - with the eastern end being particularly easy to walk, and the western end being a bit more challenging in terms of the best places to stay, and in assessing the possible transport links.

Predominantly access to the trail is via buses that link up with larger towns - and whilst there is a train service to Winchester, the next direct entry point by train comes at Amberley.

The points of access I used were the bus service at Queen Elizabeth Country Park (a challenging bus stop as it sits alongside a busy dual-carriageway), the train station at Amberley, a very easy bus stop on the A283 just west of Shoreham (which also has a burger van nearby), the train station at Southease, and the train at Eastbourne. 

The area around Brighton has more bus routes - and the Brighton buses are usually fairly reliable.

Whilst I stayed off the trail (I do quite enjoy travelling out and exploring a local town each evening), there are hostels and B&Bs which sit closer to the trail - which provide additional options, and these seemed to be fairly popular.

Between this and the additional bus options beyond Brighton there are enough options to make the trail possible even with fairly short days of walking. This can make it a high effort trail from a logistical perspective (particularly in the west), but certainly not an impossible one.

I split the walk in Petersfield, as I have family not too far away from there - and as always just plan the trail to suit what you wish to do.

The one final point I would make is to wear comfortable shoes. There are no rocky hills to climb, and no challenging terrain - but there are a lot of tracks and solid grassland to walk along. This means that foot comfort should be your primary concern.

USEFUL LINKS

Guidebook : South Downs Way Guidebook

LDWA Page : South Downs Way National Trail - LDWA Long Distance Paths

National Trail Website : South Downs Way - National Trails

Trail Website : The South Downs Way: Comprehensive Guide & Information

STAGES

I walked it east-to-west and so I'll document the stages going that way, but west-to-east is more common. Finishing at Winchester was initially a disappointing end (as it is the flatter end of the trail), until you reach Winchester and see how nice it is. Eastbourne is equally nice though and both ends easily justify an additional day.

Eastbourne to Southease (★★★★★) 

The trail starts (or ends) at the western end of the seafront in Eastbourne - before climbing up on the ridge above, and then tracking along the edge of the town. After passing Willington Hill though the path has pulled away from Eastbourne and is heading across open grassland to Jevington.

At Jevington the path drops off the ridge, before climbing back up on the far side - and then goes past the Long Man of Wilmington and a number of barrows on the way to Alfriston - where the path joins up with the southern loop of the South Downs Way), and climbs back up onto the next ridge beyond.

Here you pass more Neolithic barrows and Firle Beacon before continuing on to Itford Farm and Southease train station.

This section included 15.6 miles of walking (14.0 miles on the South Downs Way itself), with around two thousand feet of ascent.

Southease to Shoreham (★★★★★) 

From Southease train station you head over the River Ouse into Southease itself, and then cut across to a farm track. This takes you up to a farm, after which you head up the hill and then between fields to the ridgeline on the west of Lewes. Here this ridgeline is followed round (with views towards the Amex Stadium), before heading over the A27 (via a bridge).

From here the path head back up the next ridge and up to another ridgeline facing north (just south of Plumpton). Here the path turns to head west and passes Ditchling Beacon, and close to two old windmills, before dropping down to cross over the A23.

After this crossing there is another climb , before dropping into Saddlescombe, and then back up another climb to pass by Devil's Dyke (it is worth turning off to take a look). Once past Devil's Dyke the path continues along a run of hill, before dropping down to the A283 where I stopped at the bus stop.

This section totals 22.3 miles with around three thousand feet of ascent.

Shoreham to Amberley (★★★★★) 

From Shoreham the trail heads over the River Adur, and then climbs up past a pig farm on a ridge that bends round to the site of Chanterbury Ring hill fort. From here you drop down off the ridge, and then it is best to turn north to pass through the pretty village of Washington, before using a bridge to cross over the A24.

From here you head back up the ridge, and then follow this along a series of hills, before the fertile valley around the River Arun opens up ahead of your descent down into Amberley.

This section totaled 13.0 miles with around one a half thousand feet of ascent. 

Amberley to Queen Elizabeth Country Park (★★★★☆) 

From Amberley the trail cross over the River Arun, and climbs up onto the next ridge, on past a number of ancient barrows - before crossing Stane Street Roman Road and an early Neolithic camp near Glatting Beacon. 

From here the path drops down off this ridge, then back up the next ridge, before heading through a more wooded section of the South Downs. After some walking the path drops off this ridge to cross a road near Cocking, before climbing up to the next ridge on the far side. From here you work your way across to run past Devil's Jumps (more ancient burial mounds), before working your way round to Beacon Hill (site of Bronze and Iron Age forts).

From here you pass over Harting Downs with great views over South and East Harting - before walking a section mostly on tracks and roads that take you across to Queen Elizabeth Country Park.

There is a climb up heading into Queen Elizabeth Country Park, where the path heads through the woods, before getting round to the visitor centre, after which it is a short walk to the bus stop that connects up with Petersfield.

This section totaled 23.7 miles of walk and over three and a half thousand feet of ascent (this assumes going over rather than round Beacon Hill).

Queen Elizabeth Country Park to Winchester (★★★★★) 

From Queen Elizabeth Country Park the trail heads up Butsner Hill, and then on past Leydene Park (posh houses) to Salt Hill. From here you pass Whitewool Farm on the way to Old Winchester Hill, which was the site of an impressive Iron Age fort (you can see the shape of it still in the ground).

Here the views are fabulous on the way down the hill to the pretty village of Exton - after which the path heads up Beacon Hill, and then you have a section that is mostly along farm tracks to Gander Down.

Next the path heads past Cheesefoot Head - and here there is a pretty section of path - before passing through Chilcomb, and then on to meet up with the route of the M3. Here a bridge takes you across into Winchester - where you head into the centre to see the old buildings.

This section totaled 23.5 miles (of which 22.5 were on the official trail, with the last mile being to Winchester station via the Cathedral). In total the ascent was a bit over two thousand feet.

Eastbourne to Cuckmere Haven

Planned to walk in 2026...

Cuckmere Haven to Alfriston

From Eastbourne and Alfriston there are two loops of the South Downs Way. My plan has been to do the inland route, and then cover the other loop whilst walking along the coast. As a result I will probably skip this short section from the coast back to the other loop of the South Downs Way.