South Downs Way - Eastbourne to Southease (★★★★★)

Most people do the South Downs Way from west-to-east - but today I am setting out to do four of five plans days along the trail (eventually), starting in Eastbourne, and then heading west along this trail.

At this point the South Downs is a relative unknown to me (despite having grown up on the North Downs, we tended not to venture down towards the coast too often) - but it is a trail that is very highly rated.

And so here I am starting in Eastbourne, ready to head out towards Petersfield over these four days - and then I will return later in the year to complete the final stage of this trail (from Peterfield to Winchester). 

Here it is worth noting that it is more common for people to do this walk over a larger number of days - with most doing it over 8 or 9 days - and here the key is to find whatever balance you will most enjoy, not just the one that looks best on paper.

Today I'm pretty excited about what lies ahead, because Eastbourne turns out to be a very pretty seaside town, that I'm very keen to explore more at a later date - but having arrived by train the first task is to head through town to the coast.

Sometimes the additional mileage spent getting through the start town (to reach the start of the trail) can be a bit of a pain, but here the temptation is to go further, and to explore more of the town than we had intended to see - but with a long way to go on this walk, it is best to stay on the planned route.

Eastbourne seafront

One of the churches passed along the way

By the time we reach the seafront, the start of the trail is very easy to find - as we now just need to turn right, and then continue along the seafront until we reach a cafe - after which we are able to join the South Downs Way.

The start of the trail (with a left or right option)

At the trail marker, those who are going out along the southern loop need to turn left, and then walk out towards Beachy Head, on past Severn Sisters - and then up to join the northern loop at Alfriston.

But today we are going to turn right, and take the inland route - with the plan being to return at a later date, and do a coastal walk between Hastings and Brighton (stopping at Eastbourne along the way). 

This plan means that I will probably never get round to doing the short stretch between the sea and Alfriston, because it is likely to be too much effort for such a small stretch of path.

But here our focus is on getting to Alfriston via this inland route - and the walk immediate starts with a steep climb up onto the ridge above Eastbourne.

Eastbourne from above

From the top of the climb, we will follow the ridge round - tracking along the western end of Eastbourne - with grassy fields initially sitting on our western side, but soon set to surround us, as we get further along the trail.

A dew pond whilst following the ridge (with sea views behind)

Now in open fields to the west

Very slowly the path starts to turn away from Eastbourne - and here we start covering the ground to Jeveington - entering a landscape that is full of rolling green hills.

Turning away from Eastbourne

A close-up of the rolling hills

Just about to drop into Jevington

Just ahead of Jevington, our view of the green hills starts to disappear - as we drop down off the ridge, and arrive into Jevington.

Jevington itself

At Jevington we not only find a handy bench, but also the first drinking tap along the trail - with drinking taps made available to refill water bottles from at a number of sites along the trail (I will try and mention them all in this write-up).

The church (location of the first drinking tap)

From here the path continues on between horse fields - climbing back onto a new ridge - before coming up to a number of sites of historical interest at Windover and Wilmington Hills.

Between horse fields

Climbing back up

The most notable of the historic sites is the Long Man of Wilmington - but as a bit of a warning, you cannot see the Long Man from the South Downs Way as he is carved into the ridge below. As a result I have had to use a picture from the internet below as I didn't fancy a trip down the hill and back up just to see this site of interest.

The Long Man of Wilmington (we walk up top) - Source: Sussex Past

But whilst this is a site with numerous Long Barrows that date back to the Early and Middle Neolithic Periods (3400-2400BCE) - with one lying close to the route of the South Downs Way, and a second (Hunters' Burgh) sitting to the north east off the trail - the Long Man is now believed to be more modern creation.

More specifically the carving is believed to date back to the 16th or 17th century (having formerly been believed to date back to the Iron Age).

For those doing a shorter walk - there is the option to use Wilmington as a starting point for a walk - and then head up to here, enjoying the sight of the Long Man along the way. If doing this though - note that the bus that a lot of the buses tend to run very infrequently (only a couple times a day), so it is best to head out on the best to Wilmington, rather than return by bus.

But for those doing the South Downs Way, you shouldn't get too excited about the Long Man, unless you are willing to make a fairly hefty detour down and up the ridge.

In reality, though, you will not be too upset - for this is also the start of a very nice section of the path - with some steep valleys creating very nice views out across the surrounding countryside.

Walking into a steeper sided section

Looking out down one of the valleys

And having bent around these valleys at Windover Hill, we next head round, and start to make a long descent down into the village of Alfriston.

Getting ready to descend into Alfriston

Passing a horse on the way down

Looking back at the ridge (and the long barrows at the top)

Continuing to drop down

Just before crossing over into Alfriston

Here the two separate loops of the South Downs Way combine - before we head over a bridge into Alfriston - which turns out to be a very pretty town, that many will choose to spend some time in.

Here there is plenty of accommodation (for it is a popular tourist town) - and among the things to be seen are Alfriston Clery House, which is a 14th century Timber-framed Wealden house that is now owned by the National Trust (for reference it is £11 for admission if not a member, but not always open - it wasn't when I passed through).

Alfriston Clergy House - Source: National Trust

But this house sums up the village very well - with it very much being an oldy-worldy sort of village, full of historic character.

But with it also being fairly small, we are soon passing out of the village - and starting to take on a long climb up onto the ridge beyond.

And after completing much of this long climb, we find ourselves at Long Burgh Barrow - another site of historic interest that lies just off the main path.

Long Burgh Barrow

This barrow is again believed to have been constructed during the Early or Middle Neolithic period (3400-2400 BCE) - and these were burial places during the phase when Britain had it's first farming communities.

This barrow is of particular note due to it's size, but there isn't too much to see beyond the raised section of earth you can see in the photo.

From here we continue to climb up towards Bostal Hill - and then from there on towards Firle Beacon (the site of another Long Barrow).

Looking back towards Alfriston

Looking forward along the path heading to Firle Beacon

Looking out towards the sea

Closing in on Firle Beacon

This is an exceptional stretch of countryside - with long open views across the grassy hills.

And at Firle Beacon there is not only that promised long barrow, but also a number of smaller round barrows (this time dating from the early Bronze age - a later period of time).

But what you most notice are the excellent views out across the surrounding countryside (out to sea, to the flatter north, and in either direction along the trail).

And from here we head out towards Beddingham Hill (home to a radio tower) along this long open ridgeline.

The radio tower becomes visible in the distance

Looking out towards Lewes (with plenty of cloud to the north)

On towards the tower

After passing the radio tower, the path starts to drop down towards Itford Hill, after which there is a much steeper drop down to Itford Farm and the A26 below - and from here the River Ouse is particularly prominent on it's route down from Lewes to the English Channel (at Newhaven).

Looking out at the River Ouse

At Itford Farm, you will not only find a cafe - but also some very handy overnight accommodation.

And so here you do have a choice as to how you approach the overnight stop - with the accommodation here looking more tempting now that I am stood beside it, but with my plan being to continue on to the train station which sits a few minutes down the road.

Here there are hourly (but quick) trains on to Lewes (from Southease station), and with an interest in exploring the towns around the trail, that is where I am stopping over for the night.

And so at this train station the day's walking comes to an end - but with the promise of another great day of walking ahead.

Total Distance: 16.7 miles (15.0 miles on the South Downs Way)

Total Ascent: 2,141 feet (1,991 feet on the South Downs Way)

Enjoyment Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 198 and 199 OS Landranger maps - while there is also a South Downs Way guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is very well way-marked