Pennine Way - Middleton-in-Teesdale to Appleby-in-Westmorland (★★★★★)

Today the plan is to walk between Middleton-in-Teesdale and Appleby-in-Westmorland, with this walk from Middleton to Dufton (just outside of Appleby) being both part of the Pennine Way, and the most western end of the Teesdale Way.

From Middleton the trail typically runs alongside the River Tees, heading against the flow of the river up onto higher ground - passing waterfalls at Low Force and High Force along the way.

But although we are also following the Teesdale Way, at Cauldron Snout the trail diverts off the route of the River Tees, and instead follows Maize Beck across to High Cup Gill.

From here the path drops down into Dufton (and we will then head across to Appleby to meet up with the Carlisle-Settle train line), whilst the Pennine Way continues on to Cross Fell - where the source of the River Tees can be found.

Here the travel implications are a key consideration - as having made it to Appleby, any thoughts of getting back to where we started should be immediately dismissed.

The quickest route back via public transport involves a train journey up to Carlisle, across to Newcastle, down to Darlington, and then back to Middleton (via two bus journeys). And this route has an expected journey time of about six hours.

In the good old days, trains ran between Kirkby Stephen and Darlington, via Barnard Castle - passing through Bowes on the way. 

But whilst it remains easy to get to Middleton and Bowes from Darlington (by bus), getting all the way across to the Carlisle-Settle railway is currently impossible (aside for a weekly bus between Kendal and Barnard Castle).

Instead, I plan to head out on the buses to Middleton, and then I'll stay overnight in Carlisle - with the Travelodge in Carlisle being both cheap and close to the station (and a useful stopping point for Cumbria Way, Hadrian's Wall, Pennine Way, and walks in the Yorkshire Dales).

But I don't have to worry about that journey back yet - as for now I just need to worry about getting to Middleton-in-Teesdale.

And so it is that I'm heading out on a fairly regular shuttle bus from Darlington to Barnard Castle, before switching over to a less regular bus from Barnard Castle to Middleton-in-Teesdale.

Here we find a town that would feel very familiar to those who have explored the villages around Darlington, but sitting in far more impressive scenery.

And here the route is very easy to follow, heading over the bridge and turning right, onto a path that is surprisingly dry underfoot.

The view out past a parallel stream

And here it is an attractive river to follow, as we head out across open countryside.

The River Tees at this point

At this point the River Tees is a fairly shallow and rocky river (not too dissimilar to it's condition at Darlington - but very different to it's condition down in Yarm, Stockton and Middlesbrough).

From Middleton it will be about 3-4 miles before we reach Low Force, and about 5 miles up to High Force - and so this initial section of the walk does offer a potential out and back walk, from Middleton to the waterfalls.

And for those who can get out on a Wednesday, there is the additional option of getting the bus out from Middleton to High Force (or to Langdon Beck further up the trail) - via the 73 bus run by Hodgsons.

But in any case, this section crosses very pleasant countryside, and here we find one of the better examples of a riverside trail.

Continuing up along the river (looking back here)

Before too long, the river starts to head into a gorge - and soon our arrival at Wynch Bridge tells us that we are entering a busier section of the path (for we are now on the High Force Low Force circular).

The bridge here is particularly old one - and whilst the Union Chain Bridge is noted as Britain's oldest suspension bridge still carrying traffic (completed in 1820), this bridge is thought to date back even further to 1741 - but for pedestrian use only.

And here a sign on the bridge requests that you pass over one at a time, and don't do anything foolish whilst crossing over.

A clipping from the Guardian - 22nd May 1839

The bridge itself

Whilst the bridge provides a route across for those doing a loop, our path continues along the same side of the river as before.

Low Force in the distance

Here we get views of the first waterfalls along this stretch of river, and as we head round, we come across the main section of Low Force (in the distance in the above picture).

Low Force

Low Force is quite a gentle waterfall - but with it being late March after a wet winter, there is still a decent volume of water coming down the river.

I have been here before, but that was in summer, with a far less substantial flow of water - and the waterfalls are clearly best viewed at this time of year.

As we continue on towards the main waterfall (at High Force), we initially find ourselves diverted off away from the river as we start to gain height - with this giving us great views back down the river valley.

Looking back

And very quickly it is time to turn off from the main path to the viewpoint for High Force.

High Force from the viewpoint (which is easily missed)

The flow of water is fairly heavy today, but certainly not at peak levels - with the channel on the right also seeing water flow after heavy periods of rainfall.

The main section of rock here is igneous, and formed from magma that solidified 300 million years ago - with this igneous rock being part of a wider geological formation known as Whin Sill.

Whin Sill is viewed as a combination of four separate rock formations:

• Farne Islands Sill (e.g. outcrops at Farne Island and Lindisfarne)
• Alnwick Sill (e.g outcrops at Bamburgh and Dunstanburgh)
• Great Whin Sill (with notable sections across the middle of Hadrian's Wall, down the Pennine Escarpment, and in Upper Teesdale)
• Little Win Sill in Weardale

These all solidified around the same time (at least geologically speaking), and create a level of continuity as you walk along Hadrian's Wall, down the Northumberland Coastline - or along the Pennine Way from here up to and along Hadrian's Wall. 

At the waterfall itself, the upper rock is whinstone (ie part of the Whin Sill), with the lower parts of the waterfall being made of softer limestone and sandstone - resulting in the drop as the river has worn away the river bed unevenly.

Beyond the fall, things calm down a bit - and what we find is a very peaceful landscape, with the river flowing past Cronkley Fell (on the left), and past smaller hills on the right.

Up past High Force

Here we also pass by a stone quarry, before heading out across a flat plain (Pasture Foot), and up onto slightly higher ground.

The stone quarry

Pasture Foot

Looking towards Cronkley Fell from higher ground

The area around Cronkley Fell is a National Nature Reserve, with the aim of preserving the fairly rare arctic-alpine plants that survive in this landscape. 

It is a bit early in the year to see any of these, and so today we have to settle for getting a good up close view of the boggy ground that helps provide the conditions these grow in - but soon we are descending and, returning to the side of the River Tees.

The Tees from above

Having crossed over the Tees

Having dropped down off the higher ground, we find ourselves on a fairly flat plain - and whilst the Tees branches off to the left, for now we must continue on in search of a bridge that will take us over Harwood Beck (a tributary of the River Tees).

The Tees goes left, but we can't follow

Having found this bridge, we now set off on a path that will take us back alongside the River Tees - with this taking us across boggy fields in search of our ever-present companion.

Crossing some boggy fields on the way back to the Tees

Soon we are reunited with the Tees - and here Cronkley Scar lines the far side of the river, as we start heading through a fairly steep valley

Cronkley Scar is once again part of the Whin Sill, - and once that scar has receded on the far side of the bank, we head past Falcon Clints - which are a similar rock outcrop on this side of the river. 

Cronkley Scar

Boulders at the base of Falcon Clints

This quiet river valley is great for walking, but progress is slow along the base of Falcon Clints, as we have to head across a number of boulder fields.

My top tip is to not get tempted to go high - as the lower rocks tend to be the easiest to walk along - and I have on many occasion seen people aim high, and then have to struggle round increasingly large boulders - before often getting stuck at a particularly big obstacle.

As it is, the going is (all things considered) fairly straight-forward - and soon we make it out across the last of the boulder fields.

Maize Beck flows in from the left, the River Tees in from the right

From here, a split in the river is clearly visible ahead - and here we will be turning right, heading up past Cauldron Snout, before crossing over the Tees - and then saying goodbye to the River Tees for the last time, as we leave it behind.

Looking back from below Cauldron Snout

Cauldron Snout itself is more a series of rapids than a conventional waterfall, but can claim to be the longest (as in length along the ground) waterfall in England (High Force itself had a claim to fame for having the greatest volume in England).

The name 'Cauldron Snout' is unusual, but there are no hints about this derivation - despite the name hinting at some sort of creative folk story. 

But it doesn't take too much imagination to assume that the use of the world Cauldron, likely stems from the aggressive nature of the water, as it tumbles down from above.

Cauldron Snout

Getting to the base of this waterfall has been fairly straight-forward, but getting up it looks less so. 

But after a bit of exploring to see where the different footsteps have decided to go, I eventually hunt out a route that seems to have the most footsteps heading up it - along a path that cuts up through the rocks.

Here the path takes on a fairly steep climb - and by the time we make it up the side of the waterfall, we are not too far off the elevation of the building that could be seen on the way towards the split between Maize Beck and the River Tees.

Here, up above the waterfall, I bump into people for the first time in a while - and seem to commit a bit of a social faux pas.

One of those I bump into (a relatively young male) has been excitedly taking pictures of the waterfall, whilst the other (a relatively young female) is stood a very long way back from the waterfall, with a look of extreme concern.

And whilst the photographer is having a grand old time, the other is clearly of the view that this sort of activity is the height of stupidity.

Into this scene, I unexpectedly appear - on my way up from the base of the waterfall - and here it dawns on both individuals, that there is not just this large section of flat rock at the top of the waterfall, but also a way down.

And whilst the one taking photo's looks upon me with excitement over this news, the other merely looks at me in disbelief - as if to say 'what have you done? did you have to be so stupid?'.

It is clear at this point, that I will now be responsible if anything happens to the one taking the photos - and so after giving out my usual greetings, I take a few quick photos and scuttle off - making a rapid exit from the situation I just made.

Cauldron Snout from above

From here a bridge takes us across the River Tees (opposite the dam for Cow Green Reservoir) - and here we bend back round to follow the ridge that runs high above Maize Beck - and here we are follow a track rather than a mere footpath.

The reservoir dam

The valley below

Our onward path

From here it is a fairly long and continuous (but fairly gradual) climb up along the side of Dufton Fell - although before we get too far up, we cut across to join back up with Maize Beck.

Reunited with Maize Beck

Here we follow the beck - but before too long we find a split in the path, with a choice of heading over a bridge, or on and over a later bridge.

To cross or not to cross

I'm not entirely sure what the reason behind the two routes is - but with the route heading over the bridge looking to take the more interested route past High Cup Gill, I opt to cross over here.

This takes us across to a fairly wet path, but whilst rocks make this easy to walk without stepping into deep puddles, there is a need to be careful as frogs are living in the pools on this path. 

And so this section must be done very carefully - to avoid stepping on any well camouflaged amphibians.

But before too long, we find ourselves at the top of High Cup Gill - which turns out to be one of the most dramatic valleys I have ever seen.

High Cup Gill

From here on High Cup Plain, Highcup Gill Beck flows over the lip of High Cup Scar, at High Cup Nick, into High Cup Gill below - with a clear abundance of High Cup names on display.

The scale of this valley is easy to underestimate, but in person it is pretty special - and it is hard to get over just how big this valley is.

High Cup Scar

Starting to head around to the western side

Our path heads right, and runs along the western edge of the valley - but although initially we are heading along a wide flat section, up ahead the path starts to pinch through a section with slopes on both sides.

But just as it looks like we will have a short section spent carefully inspecting our shoes - whilst shuffling forwards very slowly - it becomes clear that there is a second track that pulls off to the right, that not only very easy to follow, but also a nice comfortable distance back from the edge of the valley side.

And so this proves to be a route that anyone should be able to enjoy - without ever having to worry about an untimely fall to their death below.

View down the valley from further round

From here the path slowly starts to drift away from the valley, but with so much height to give up, there continue to be great views out across the countryside below.

A new friend

Some more friends

In reverse this walk would be quite a climb - but it is never particularly steep, and soon we join up with a lane that runs down into the village of Dufton.

Before reaching the lane

Facing Dufton Pike (on the lane)

Further down the lane

Looking towards Keisley

As lanes into villages go, this one is pretty impressive, and although it's pretty wet underfoot it makes for a nice trip down into Dufton.

From here we have a choice - we can head down on the road, or we can use the Pennine Journey route that finishes near Appleby train station.

Here I decide that I'll stick on the footpaths - but here I can give a spoiler and share that this was a terrible decision.

The road looked fairly quiet, whilst the route along the Pennine Journey turned out to be a very muddy route that came to a bit of a halt heading through Flakebridge Wood. And after that it became very hard to follow, with a number of wrong turns along the way.

In the end, this meant a very wet and muddy arrival at a train station, having manage to reach Dufton in a reasonably good state. But even so, it was been a great walk - and really, I just wish I'd done it sooner.

Total Distance: 23.7 miles (19.8 miles along the Pennine/Teesdale Way)

Total Ascent: 2,438 feet (2,087 feet along the Pennine/Teesdale Way)

Enjoyment Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 91 OS Landranger map - while there is also a Pennine Way or Teesdale Way guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is generally easy to follow, but note that you can't rely on phone signal through the North Pennines