Yesterday I had walked the High Peak Trail (or the Pennine Bridleway) from Cromford to Buxton, and today the plan is to continue along the Pennine Bridleway - before finishing up at Edale.
With this in mind the first task of the day is to walk (in reverse) the walk from the end of the previous day - using the Midshires Way to return to Chelmorton (via Deep Dale) - where I opt to slightly cut the corner on my return to the Pennine Bridleway.
This sees me turn left at Chelmorton to walk past the Church, and then follow a bridleway up to the Pennine Bridleway, just shy of Fivewells Farms.
Although this means skipping a (very small) section of the Pennine Bridleway, it is a nicer route up to that trail - and here I enjoy the walk out from Chelmorton, before turning left onto the main trail for the day.
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| Heading up from Chelmorton |
From here we are heading across the lanes to Blackwell - where we turn left and start heading down into Chee Dale - and where our route passes over the top of the
Monsal Trail.
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| Dropping into Chee Dale |
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| Monsal Trail heading east |
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| Monsal Trail end to the west |
Here we are crossing the
Monsal Trail at it's very western end - passing over the top rather than crossing the trail directly - and then drop down to the River Wye below.
On the way we pass a bike rental shop, where I stop to buy some more drink and snacks (making friends with a very friendly sheepdog, while I wait for someone to finish renting out their bikes). And refuelled, I cross over the River Wye, and get ready to head up the far side of Chee Dale.
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| Cottage by the River Wye |
Before doing this we turn right, and briefly follow the River Wye - before taking a winding route up to the ridge above.
On the way up the ridge, we pass over a split in the former railway (where it would branch off to head to Chapel-en-le-Frith) - and here I wonder if they could add the very short section of track required to put a station in here, allowing people to access the
Monsal Trail by train from Manchester fairly easily.
There are plans to restore trains to the
Monsal Trail, but it does seem better for walkers and cyclists to just add trains to terminus' at either end - and to just extend the train from Matlock up to the Hope Valley Line at some point.
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| Heading under the northern split in the old railway |
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| Up on this alternate branch |
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| Close up of the rocks |
From here we continue to wind up our ridge until we have fully made our way down, and back up, Chee Dale.
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| Looking back to where we started on the far side (we came down from the left) |
Here we head past some farm buildings that are being redeveloped on top of this ridge - and from here we are following the road to the quarry, until we turn off onto a farm track just before Tunstead (a few trucks come along here so keep an ear out for them, as it may be best to step aside).
Here, whilst it is not bad, we don't have the most exciting section of path - but we still have plenty of greenery and fields to enjoy along the way.
And once on the farm track, we head across past Old Hall Farm - and on through Wormhill - after which we get some views out towards Chee Dale, before we turn to head north.
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| Final views towards Chee Dale (and route of the Monsal Trail) |
Here the
Pennine Bridleway continues on along the roads, heading first to Wheston, before using a farm track to swap ridges, and continue on to Peak Forest along another road.
But here - like some walking James Bond - I decide to go rogue, and break from the official route of the trail.
Whilst horses and cyclists can't continue on through a series of Dales, walkers can - and so here I plan to walk through Peter Dale, Hay Dale and Dam Dale - before re-uniting with the
Pennine Bridleway at Peak Forest.
And for anyone travelling on foot, I think this is the best way to approach this section, as not only does it offer a nicer walk - but it also saves a good chunk of road walking. For those on horse or bike - you will have to stick to the official trail.
Now on this alternate route, Peter Dale proves to be a slightly clumsy Dale - with lots of rock lying on the path as you make your way through a limestone, and tree, lined valley.
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| Limestone edges of Peter Dale |
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| Approaching Dale Head |
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| And another limestone wall before leaving Peter Dale |
After this, Hay Dale (one of the five Dales that form part of Derbyshire Dales Nature Reserve) proves to be slightly more refined - with the valley being less tree-lined, and instead giving more open views of smoother limestone valley edges.
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| Much more refined at Hay Dale |
And then we end up walking a small section of the
Pennine Bridleway (in reverse), as we head up to Dam Dale.
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| Now on the Pennine Bridleway (going the wrong way) |
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| Looking up Dam Dale from the Pennine Bridleway |
And here we turn off the
Pennine Bridleway once again, to follow the footpath up Dam Dale - which proves to be the best of the three dales - with a big open limestone valley on display.
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| Looking back from Dam Dale |
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| Looking back from further up |
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| Now cutting over the fields to Peak Forest |
The final dale at Dam Dale wouldn't look out of place in the Yorkshire Dales - and so this is a lovely stretch to walk through - but before too long we are heading into Peak Forest, where we get back onto the official route of the trail.
Peak Forest itself is a large village - and the distance between the village of Peak Forest and the
Peak Forest Canal initially seems quite confusing, until you find out that the names refer to a literal forest that covered a large expanse of this area.
This forest was known as the Forest of High Peak - and in medieval times this moorland forest covered much of the area between the River Wye to the south (we crossed this), the River Goyt to the west (the
Peak Forest Canal runs alongside this), the
River Derwent to the East (heading up from Matlock and Cromford), and the River Etherow to the north (up level with Manchester, and passing by Hadfield).
This royal forest was administered by William Perevel from Castleton (where he had a castle looking out over the Hope Valley) - although forest may be slightly too strong a word, as much of it was open country, and instead this was really a royal hunting reserve.
At the centre of this reserve sat the village of Peak Forest, and this explains both the name and the relative grandeur of the village itself (it's church for instance is massive for a country village).
Having joined back up with the
Pennine Bridleway, we are back to following roads - although very minor ones - heading north out of the village, and then turning to head north-west towards Perryfoot.
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| On the road between Peak Forest and Perryfoot |
From Perryfoot we cross over a busy road (with a dedicated section of footpath running along a brief section of this road), before continuing on up another minor road - that starts to climb up the ridge as we approach another busy road.
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| Now largely up the ridge |
At the top of this climb we meet up with that busy road - and here we split from the
Pennine Bridleway for the last time, as we head off to Edale to catch our train home.
On paper this means following this busy road for a short stretch, but someone with a heart the size of a bowling ball has added a stretch of permissive footpath, that allows us to cut across without being mown down by motorists, before we turn off onto a path that will take us down into the Hope Valley.
Once on this second path, we have a small section of ascent, before we turn off to the left - whilst this path otherwise continues on towards Lord's Seat, and then either Mam Tor or Castleton (where you can find the previously mentioned Perevil Castle).
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| Looking back from the stretch of ascent |
But our left turn, instead takes us more directly down into the Hope Valley, along a route that is aiming for Barber Booth - and this is a very good path, that also offers a nice route up onto the ridge above.
Here we find ourselves looking out across the Hope Valley, with views that make this an exceptional end to these two days of walking.
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| The sheep don't seem to mind walkers |
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| Our route down into the valley (it's a great route down or up) |
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| The Pennine Way heads up the furthest valley to Jacob's Ladder |
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| The run of hills to the south of Edale |
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| Looking back the ridge we have come down from |
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| Dropping down into Barber Booth |
We do eventually reach a minor road, which we follow down into Barber Booth - after which we cross over the railway, and continue on along the excellent network of paths you find in the Hope Valley.
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| The railway as it heads off to Cowburn Tunnel |
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| Passing Gindslow Knoll (with the Pennine Way running along the base) |
Soon we turn, to cross over the railway once again (after reaching a sign that points us in the direction of Edale train station). And from here it is a short onward walk to the station itself, and to the train that will take me home.
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| On the way to the train station |
Here we have diverted off the
Pennine Bridleway to join up with the train network, but as connections to trains home go, I think this might be one of the best. And this makes this a really good place to split up the trail.
Total Distance: 18.3 miles (11.0 miles on the Pennine Bridleway)
Total Ascent: 2,386 feet (693 feet on the Pennine Bridleway)
Once again a lot of distance has been done off the official route, but I think this is a great way of doing this trail. For the distance and ascent I have treated the walking through the three Dales as being part of the Pennine Bridleway (I don't think it makes much difference to the totals, although the figures will show slightly less ascent than following the route strictly). If you are walking I would suggest taking the route through the three Dales rather than doing the official route on the roads
Enjoyment Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5
Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 110 and 119 OS Landranger maps - while there is also a Pennine Bridleway guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.
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