Pennine Bridleway - Ribblehead to Settle (★★★★★)

The previous day I had planned to walk the Pennine Way from Alston to Appleby-in-Westmorland, stay over in Carlisle - and then head down today to walk from Ribblehead to Settle along the Pennine Bridleway.

But in the end I'd had to abandon that walk before it could be started, after the bus driver let me know that he could only go so far towards Alston due to a road closure - and so I had to settle for a lovely walk along Hadrian's Wall. But today we are back on plan, and ticking off new sections of National Trails.

When doing these walks I do often use Carlisle as a base - but one of the issues with the Carlisle-Settle line remains the relative infrequency of services, and this still applies when heading out from Carlisle.

So today I have a bit of a choice - I could get up early (as I tend to do when heading out from Teesside) and get the 5:48 train from Carlisle (getting in at 7:11), or have a bit of a lie in and get the 8:24 train (before getting into Ribblehead at 9:47). Sadly there is no Goldilocks option that leaves at 7:24, and gets in at 8:47.

The second option is of course the more civilised option - but it does risk an extra night away as I'll reach Leeds to late to complete the journey home. But in the end I decide that 5:48 is simply too early - and so I book a cheap hotel in Leeds (that I may or may not make use of) - and opt to have a bit of a lie in.

And so it is that I arrive refreshed in Ribblehead, after a lovely journey down from Carlisle. 

On this train I generally prefer to sit on the eastern side when coming down from Carlisle, and on the western side heading up - but it would be at Garsdale that I would ideally change sides of the train (as the views out to the west past Dent station are particularly good).

But having made it to Ribblehead - we leave the station, and from here the plan is to be a little bit cheeky, and to skip a very tiny section of the Pennine Bridleway (the bit between the B6255 and the join with the Pennine Way).

This makes it a lot easier for me to rejoin the trail for Ribblehead - and initially I will be following that road (the B6255), before turning off along the route of the Dales Way (also the route of an old Roman Road) - before then following the Pennine Bridleway until it reaches Settle.

But before doing this, there is time to stop off for a Bacon Roll (which was very good by the way), and then the first task is to tick off a road section following the B6255.

Whilst waiting for this bacon roll, I get asked if I'm doing the Yorkshire Three Peaks - and here I do feel like I passed some sort of test by saying that no, I was doing the Pennine Bridleway.

Here you have to remember that there is a bit of a class system to walking (although note that is separate to how normal people - or muggles as we can call them - view walkers, with their consensus being that anyone doing over one hour is in fact a complete idiot).

At the lower end of the walker's class system, you have you park-and-walk style hikes to somewhere like Mam Tor (and people have been known to spit on the ground if you mention Mam Tor). 

And whilst these are usually lovely walks (and a great way to spend some time), they don't carry with them much cache (or respect from your questioner).

In comparison, the Yorkshire Three Peaks does carry with it a bit more respectability - due the the challenge involved - but being such a popular walk, it is often considered to still be within that plebeian tier of walking activities.

And here it would really only be appropriate to say "yes, I'm doing the Yorkshire Three Peaks - but I do do other walks actually". And this response would still be treated with great suspicion, until it could be proven that you have indeed done other walking.

Above this you have walks such as the Pennine Way, which are treated with some respect - but with the questioner only reluctantly giving you the opportunity to explain how you are walking 268 miles across the roof of England, whilst passing sights that few other than the committed will ever get to see.

But then we have the Pennine Bridleway - a walk so obscure, that to proclaim it to be your chosen route, is to proclaim that you are in fact Chieftain of the Dúnedain (for those too uncultured to get that reference, enjoy your walk up Mam Tor at the weekend).

And for those offended by this, don't blame me - I didn't create this system - I am only here to explain it to you. And after all - most people think you are a complete idiot for walking more than one hour anyway.

But with this test passed, we have a bit of a chat about my walk ahead - although here I stumble a bit, by only being able to say that it is quite a wiggly route, and definitely doesn't go via Nether End (maybe I am off to Mam Tor after all).

Ribblehead Viaduct from the road

But with that bacon roll eaten, I head on up the road - and here there is a bit of a verge to use, but with a need for a bit of patience on some of the trickier bits.

All the same, we soon see a winding route appear in the distance (heading up a fairly steep ridge) - and whilst the good news is that this is not the route of the road, the bad news is that it is the route we will be taking.

And so having turned off the road, we first cross over the Gayle Beck - and then start a climb up onto that ridge.

Over the Gayle Beck

The view down after a bit of a climb (with Ribblehead Viaduct just about visible still)

At the top of this climb we turn right onto both the Pennine Bridleway and the Pennine Way - and we have walked this section before whilst going from Hawes to Horton-in-Ribbledale along the Pennine Way.

In this section of the trail we are looking out across fairly empty moorland - so in itself it isn't the prettiest stretch of path - but one of the nice things about this stretch is that you can have a look around you at the three peaks of Ingleborough, Pen-y-Ghent and Whernside.

But we do soon lose sight of all of those, as we dip down to cross over the Cam Beck.

Over the Cam Beck

Then our focus is primary on Ingleborough - as our route will run across to the plain that sits below it, but above Horton-in-Ribblesdale.

Looking across towards Ingleborough

With this in mind, we soon find ourselves leaving behind the Pennine Way at Old Ing - and making our way down towards High Birkwith - from which we are following the farm drive, heading south.

We are not on this drive for too long, however - and soon cut down through the fields to meet up with the River Ribble, which we are able to cross via a rather attractive looking wooden bridge.

Over the River Ribble

Once over this river it is then a short stretch (up a bit of a slope) until we go through an underpass - that takes us underneath the Carlisle-Settle railway.

Under the railway

Once underneath the railway, we turn right, and very briefly follow the railway back towards Ribblehead - before turning left, and continuing to head up this ridge.

Soon we meet up with the road that runs alongside the railway - and once over this road, we continue to climb until we reach the flat plains that sit below Ingleborough.

From here our view is mostly a view of flat empty fields (with the peak of Pen-y-Ghent behind), but it isn't long until things get more interesting, as we pass Crummack Dale and Moughton Scars.

Crummack Dale and Moughton Scars (and Pen-y-Ghent behind)

Looking further to the right from the same spot

From further up the path

I have walked in this area a number of times, and have never actually realised that this was here - and it's an incredibly unusual feature, with a large step down from a limestone terrace onto a fairly flat plain, that is then drained by Austwick Beck.

I have tried to understand how this landscape was formed - but despite a fair amount of effort, I didn't understand all the words - but what I can confirm is that it is very pretty, and that there are footpaths that looks well worth doing in Crummack Dale below.

After this unexpected highlight, we make our way round to Long Scar - where we very briefly meet up with the Dales High Way (and this section I have walked whilst also going from Ribblehead to Settle) - and we will meet up with that trail once more on our walk today (before we reach Settle).

But we are not with that trail for long - and soon we split off, and here the markers on the ground send us around a small hillock, whilst the route on the map heads over - and whilst I go with the wisdom of the finger posts, here I think the better route would have been to go over the top by the Cairn.

Still we get some nice views out towards Ingleborough, as we make our way round towards Clapham Bottoms.

Looking out towards Ingleborough

Curving round and starting to head towards Clapham

Next the path turns to head southwards - in the general direction of Clapham (which we will pass close by) - and here we have a walk along the side of a pretty valley - with a fair amount of descent completed along this section of the path.

Looking back up the path

Look out to the side

Getting close to Clapham by now

At the end of this path, we turn left - and now start heading directly away from Clapham - and from here we have a good view out towards Robin Proctor's Scar.

View of Robin Proctor's Scar near our turning

And from further round

It is unusual to see a scar named after a person - but the story behind the name isn't exactly heartwarming.

Here the name refers to the legend of a local man who lived in Crummack Dale - who had a horse who was smart enough to know the way home, after he'd had a few drinks at the pub. 

But on a particularly dismal night, he made the mistake of getting on the wrong horse - and the two then headed off in the general direction of his home.

But being completely sozzled, with the horse not knowing the way, and with terrible weather to boot - the horse got lost, and drifted off course, only to head off this scar - killing both horse and rider.

At some level this story stands up to scrutiny - because it would be possible that Robin was frequenting an inn in Austwick - but at the same time it sounds like complete nonsence.

Sadly there seems to be no detail on how much of an old wives tale this is, or even why such a tale would be made up in the first place - but I'm guessing it was made up to make fun of some tourists, who then went on to name the scar after Mr Proctor.

But as it is, we soon make it past the scar - and then start to descend down, to meet up with a road to the east of Austwick.

On the way down to the road

At the road we turn right, and briefly follow this minor road - before we turn off the the left - and start to loop our way around a wooded hill, as we make our way towards Feizor.

On the run into Feizor

At Feizor there is a little tea room - and here I stop off to get two cans of drink (there is also some very nice looking cake - but unfortunately I have to avoid dairy, and so pass on them).

From Feizor, we once again join up with the Dales High Way as the path follows the road round (as it heads past the houses, and then turns into a track that heads up though a gap in the hills).

Looking down from the first part of the climb

Heading through a gap in the hills

Looking back towards Feizor

On my way up I pass a pair of older men having a great time taking photos of the scenery - and of a very lovely dog, who scampers over for a pat when I nod hello to it.

But otherwise this continues to be a very quiet section of path, as we crest this ridge - and start to look out towards Moughton Scar.

This is the far end of that limestone plateau that we passed earlier in the day (when we were passing Moughton Scars) - and from here we have a series of scars to gaze upon as we continue up the trail, and say goodbye to the Dales High Way (which turns off to the left).

Looking towards Studrigg Scar

Having left behind the Dales High Way, we are now start to bend towards the east - and slowly dropping down to meet up with the road below.

Bending to the east

Looking towards Moughton Scar

Once we have met up with the road, we now have a stretch spent following it - and then at Swarth Moor we turn off onto a smaller road that will take us down to Little Stainforth.

Looking towards the quarry at Foredale

The view of Pen-y-Ghent from our smaller road

Although we have a stretch of road walking here, it isn't exactly a busy road - although there is a need to shift over when a tractor comes through - and even the motorbikes going past are very polite about it.

As a result, it is a very pleasant stretch of walking as we head on towards Little Stainforth - where things get much busier due to the large caravan park, which that village hosts.

Here we turn to the left, and make our way down towards the River Ribble - where the river is crowded with what I presume are holiday makers - and where there are a number of cars having a very tough time trying to park alongside this tiniest of roads.

Once over the bridge, we leave the masses behind - and head up a fairly steep climb until we are following, and then crossing over, the railway line (the route here differs from the route on the map).

Once over the railway line, the path dips under a fairly busy road - and then we head into Stainforth itself.

At this village we turn right, then left - and the follow the road round until it becomes a track that climbs up onto the ridge above - and here we get some fabulous view back over the terrain we have been walking.

View behind us

Eventually this climb starts to level out, and then we reach a flatter plain at the top of this ridge - as we also pass by Catrigg Force (you can turn off the path, and it is only a short walk down to the falls).

View out from near Catrigg Force

View out from further round

At this point I finally get phone signal - and checking to see if there might be a delay on the trains that will help me get home tonight, I find that there is in fact a forty minute delay due to signal issues in Carlisle.

And whilst this probably ruins a lot of people's plans, it is great news for me - as it means I can enjoy a nice, slow amble into Settle, without any worrying about the time (I do wish I knew this before doing quite a quick ascent of this ridge, however).

Here it is a very enjoyable stretch of walking, as we continue along this ridge - passing Winskill, and then heading up towards the road that runs up from Settle towards Malham Tarn (it is an extremely minor road).

At this point not quite on the actual road

On the road

Once we meet up with this road, we follow it for a bit - before turning off onto the same section of path that we used when we headed out from Settle whilst doing the Settle Loop section of the Pennine Bridleway.

And here all that is left to do, is to enjoy the views of the countryside below - as we track the ridge round (until we have drawn level with Settle itself).

The view from the ridge (looking towards Ingleborough)

Eventually this track starts to dip down into Settle, and then turns into a road - and here we finish with an amble through town - stopping off at the shop for some food and drink, having a look at the plant pot people, and then making our way round to the train station.

Bluey and Indy (I had to use Google I'm afraid)

A roman soldier

These all form part of the Settle Flower Pot Festival - and from what the locals tell me, it is a bit of a tradition that has grown and grown over time - and which has seen increased levels of enthusiasm and competition over the years.

I'm told that walks around town to spot all the plant pot people are fairly popular - and they also run workshops, and sell trail maps to help you find all the little people.

But our main focus is just reaching the train station. And here we do actually reach it in time for the planned departure of the train, and so we have a bit of a wait - before heading home.

Total Distance: 22.8 miles (19.6 miles)

Total Ascent: 2,608 feet (2,060 feet)

Enjoyment Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ / 5

This is once again an excellent walk along the very excellent Pennine Bridleway. Although I have walked this area before on other trails - there was still plenty of new sights to see.

Click for the connecting sections of the Pennine Bridleway, from Kirkby Stephen to Ribblehead, via the Settle Loop (extended to Malham Cove and Gordale Scar), and from Settle to Sough.

Click for connecting walks along the Dales High Way, from Skipton to Settle and from Ribblehead to Settle.

Click for the crossing section of the Pennine Way, from Hawes to Horton-in-Ribblesdale.

Click for a crossing walk, from Dent round to Horton-in-Ribblesdale via Pen-y-Ghent.

Disclaimer: This writeup provides a narrative of what to expect rather than a route guide to follow. The route is covered by the 98 OS Landranger map - while there is also a Pennine Bridleway guidebook which includes OS mapping (links redirect to Amazon). The route is in general well way-marked.